The Treloar Herald : Khartoum

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Day 31 - Our Flight to Nairobi - Kenya

Sunday: The experience at the Khartoum Airport was one of utter chaos, it started with us trying to get into the Departures Terminal through only one door, past the throng of people, all with the same intention. Moreover, we were accompanied by these huge cardboard bike boxes which needed manhandling and could barely fit through the security x-ray machine.

We hustled our way into the Terminal Building, but not before we were overwhelmed by a horde of Porters from Hell. Even though we protested vehemently, they wouldn't accept "no!" for an answer, and manhandled our boxes and luggage through the Security Checkpoint to the Kenyan Air book-in cubicles anyway.

They then demanded monetary gratuities, in some instances up to three Porters demanding a tip for carrying one piece of luggage. To make things worse, we had no money, having got rid of our excess Sudanese Pounds earlier. In some instances, due to the language barrier, negotiations with them became rather heated.

Fortunately an Airport Official intervened, and managed to get the Porters to leave. However, our problems were not over.

Once booked in, the Air Kenya appointed Porters, demanded payment to transport our bike boxes to the "Oversize Luggage" Section, and another standoff ensued.

This was once again only resolved by the intervention of some other high ranking official, but not before relations between Sudanese and foreign tourists had come within breaking point of outright war. One rider, already in possession of The Pacifier Award, was trying very hard for a double award!!

Once through into the Boarding Area, things managed to calm down, and we were able to regroup and relax, although at the back of our minds, we still wondered if our bike boxes had made it through to be loaded onto the plane.

We boarded the plane as per instruction and took off according to schedule. The flight went well, breakfast was served at 3.30am. Philip was the official designated winner of the "First to have a Beer Award" when he asked the Air Hostess for a beer and managed to have a beer with his breakfast in the early hours of the morning. Such dedication to the cause needs to be nurtured and admired. Well done Philip.

Judith and I on the other hand, had our breakfast and proceeded to sleep all the way to our destination.

Arrival in Kenya: Nairobi Airport was an utter pleasure compared to Khartoum. It didn't take us long and we were all processed through Immigration, made it to the luggage pickup area, where miracle of miracles, our bike boxes awaited us (although much worse for wear and tear). Then we were out of the Arrivals Terminal and greeted by our Designated Kenyan Driver.

We boarded a Shuttle Bus and were driven to Wildebeest Eco Lodge which was located in the Karen area and on the opposite side of Nairobi City, it was the designated TDA Camp for the next 6 days.

Mark & Philip and Sunrise in Nairobi

Negotiating the Airport Parking Lot

Loading up the Shuttle Bus - bikes and all.

Wendy and Tom taking time out for a photo shoot

After booking in, some of the riders chose to camp, while others elected to take up available accommodation (at own cost). We then regrouped and had breakfast at the Eco Lodge, and a couple of us, had our first beer - with breakfast!

Nothing like a cold Pilsner with Breakfast!

At breakfast, Judith and I met up with a fellow South African, Johnny Lawrence whom we know from our days in Rustenburg (he was the Best Man at Oliver and Lentie Page's Wedding). He has been in Kenya since 2012 and was camping at the Lodge with his young son - It is such a small world indeed.

We did not book in though, as we were going to be hosted for the majority of our stay in Nairobi, by Robert and Julie Pilkington, the parents of Richard, one of our son's friends in Cape Town.

I thumbed a lift to the nearest Mall with Errol and Brad from TDA, where I went through the usual ritual of changing $USD for local currency - Kenyan Shillings - and loading our cell phones with local sim cards.

Robert and his Dad Jack, fetched us after their golf excursion at 2pm, and took us with all of our luggage (we left the bikes at the Eco Lodge) to their house, where we met up with Robert's wife, Julie.

Later that evening we were treated to a great braai (BBQ) with much beer & wine consumed by yours truly, a good end to an eventful day.

Cheers,
Mike T

Riders having breakfast at Wildebeest Eco Lodge

Day 30 - Rest Day Khartoum - Boxing bikes & Dips in the Pool

Saturday: Had a relatively good night's sleep camped out on the grass at the Grand Hotel Villa, Judith had breakfast at the Hotel, I couldn't face food so early in the morning (maybe I overdid the ice-cream last night?).

We had a very chilled rest day, the main attraction being the boxing of our bikes which we will be taking with us on the flight to Nairobi. Boxes and tape were supplied by TDA and all we had to do was dismantle the bikes and fit them into the boxes, then seal them up ready for shipment.

I think Kenya Air are going to have a minor sense of humor failure, when 15 TDA riders pitch up to their flight from Khartoum to Nairobi, with their luggage and bike boxes, we are certainly going to have an interesting time booking in.

Used the opportunity in the afternoon to spend some quality time in the Hotel swimming pool, was joined in the pool by Muzz.

Packed up our tent, packed up our bags and had a late buffet dinner at the Hotel, before lounging around at the pool area, waiting for the shuttle to take us to the Airport at 11.30 pm.

Our flight from Khartoum to Nairobi takes off at 02:55 tomorrow morning, its going to be a long night at the Airport (especially for us TDA riders who are used to going to bed at 8pm latest !).

Nairobi, Kenya - here we come.

Cheers,

Mike T

Muzz and I taking advantage of the Hotel pool -

Boxing our bikes on the lawn

Day 29 - Bus Ride Rest Day (from Border to Khartoum)

Waiting for the bus, that's us! -

Friday: Sudan/Ethiopia Border to Khartoum (8 hr bus ride)

06:00 - Up early, packed up the tent and our holiday bags (no cycling for the next 8 days). Had a cup of coffee and a breakfast, all this while it was still relatively dark. Then walked with our bikes to the bus waiting for us, at the main road. If the bus won't come to us, then we don't have much option, but to walk to the bus with our bikes.

Loaded bags onto bus, then of course not a major surprise, but there was no space for our bikes, so we left them on the side of the road, with Leo the Bike Mechanic in charge.

Bus Company supposed to be sending another Bus/Truck to fetch and transport them to Khartoum for us? I suppose time will tell if they get there before dark.

Took a luxury bus back to Khartoum, very spacey and ultra modern, even got to watch the movie - Fast and Furious 5 nogal - on the on-board tv screen. First time I have sat in front of a T.V screen in nearly 4 weeks.

The bikes can't fit into the bus...

All ready to go back to Khartoum!

Happiness is a luxury bus load of cyclists :)

Arrived at the Grand Hotel Villa, found ourselves a pleasant camp spot on the lawn and pitched the tent. Decided to camp instead of hotel-ing like we did last time. We need only sleep over for one night, and we found the hotel very over-priced the last time we were here. We also have 6 days in Nairobi coming up, and need to conserve our funds.

Took a proper shower for the first time in 7-days (going to miss those donkey washes for a while). A most pleasant experience, having the luxury of hot and cold water at your beckoning.

In the evening, 12 of us went off and walked to the Mall, then had dinner at Layali Al Waha Restaurant just located outside the Mall. It was a most pleasant dinning experience, and all agreed the food had been great.

Then into the Mall, for some of their famous ice cream (Judith had 3 and I had 5 scoops). We followed this up with a very casual cappuccino, lounging around in the Coffee Shop.

Group of us then took a taxi back to the Hotel, to find our bikes waiting patiently for us on the grass camping area. A most pleasant night out in Khartoum.

Cheers,
Mike T

Thirst-Quenching Lemon and Mint drink

One of Khartoum's many statues

A group of us out having dinner at the Mall

Day 23 - Stage 19 - Khartoum to Rufaa (148 km)

Saturday: At the Briefing Meeting the evening before the next days ride, a road might be described as being tarred, but that doesn't mean its easy to ride on.

We formed up after breakfast, and we rode in a convoy, but this time without so much fanfare, until we were approximately 12 km out of Khartoum, then it was every rider to their own.

The tar road to Fafaa, was very uneven, potholed, had an eroded shoulder and they used a large aggregate (very uneven to ride on) during its construction

Stopped at 57 km for our regular tea & coffee break accompanied by Max the Sweep Rider.

Judith battled on to lunch at the 78 km mark, decided she was going too slow, climbed into the lunch truck, while I completed the remaining 70 km with Liz Morris.

Joined the Tatoo Club today, at the 113 km mark, right at the Coke Stop, I moved off the tar onto the gravel shoulder for a fast approaching truck coming from the rear. As the truck passed, I tried to climb up from the gravel shoulder onto the tar, but the sidewash from the truck forced me down, resulting in me crashing on the tar road.

I only suffered minor tar burns to my left elbow and left leg, as well as bruised palm's to both hands and a bruised hip. But the biggest damage was to "My Pride" I managed to fall right in front of the riders and locals frequenting the Coke Stop, and it must of looked quite spectacular.

Fortunately Liz who is a Wound Specialist and Bridgette who is a Doctor, were on hand to dress my wounds, and my thanks goes out to the two of them, unfortunately they could do nothing for my pride!

On arrival back at Camp I consulted with Dr Helen our Tour Doctor, who cleaned my wounds and re-dressed them for me.

Attended Riders Briefing Meeting, had a delicious chicken curry for dinner, then early to bed at 8pm.

Another stage down and a 148 km distance done, only five more days to cycle before we reach the Ethiopian Border.

Cheers,

Mike T

Riders Convoy forming up in the morning

Liz (RSA) all ready to go

End of the Convoy riding from here we are on our own

Passed many trucks bringing wood into Khartoum - Deforestation very evident in Sudan

Today's first Tea/Coffee Stop

The Coke Stop where I managed to impress both riders and locals with my spectacular fall-down abilities.

Rode with Brad (Sweep Rider) and Liz after lunch

Our tent pitched at this evenings camping site.

Dinner time is quality time

Today was a tough day for some of us

Day 22 - Rest Day - Breakfast Buffet's, Ice-Cream & Photobombing

"And then, Michael had finally and suddenly arrived in Soda Heaven..."

Friday: Rest Day in Khartoum

Surprise surprise, we both managed to sleep relatively late this morning, did the necessary, then went to the Hotel Restaurant for a mother of a breakfast buffet.

There is a Barber shop in the Hotel, so I decided to have a Number 0 haircut (shaved my head) as I am tired of trying to keep the sand out from my flowing locks. Yussaf the Barber took his time, and as a result I got my money's worth.

We walked to the Mall with Hanne, met some of the other riders and proceeded to have milk shakes and Ice-cream, and did some shopping for essentials at the Supermarket. Then tea/coffee at a Coffee Shop, followed by more ice-cream to eat while we walked back to Camp/Hotel.

On the way back to the Hotel, we were stopped by a local gentleman who insisted we joined him at his shop for some watermelon. So we sat down and had a pleasant time discussing current affairs with him. His English was good, since he had spent some time working for an American Company. It's the small things like this, that make this trip an eye-opener.

After traveling through Egypt & Sudan, the things we take for granted back in SA (such as visiting the Mall) suddenly take on an Alice in Wonderland experience. Suddenly there is ice-cream, milk shakes and cappuccino's in Khartoum! It feels like I am a child and I just walked into a toy shop!!

Bernd Beigl has rejoined us again, he crashed on one of the early stages, was hospitalized and underwent surgery to his face in Egypt, before flying back to Germany for reconstructive dental work. He flew back to Khartoum, and it is great to have him back with us.

At 5.30 pm we all met up and went off in taxis to the private house of Ed, who is at the Canadian Consulate in Khartoum, where he and a bunch of his selected guests, hosted the full TDA Team (Riders & Management) for dinner.

It was a grand affair, we were entertained by good music and dancing by a group of local Sudanese musicians and dancers. While dinner (starters, main course, and pudding) was out of this world, and appreciated by all concerned.

Back to the Hotel to pack our permanent & daily bags, we also took out our MTB tires from our permanent bags, we will be exchanging our slick tires for knobbly tires sometime during this coming leg (will be riding on dirt/gravel roads soon).

It's been a great rest day for the both of us.

Cheers,

Mike T