Mzuzu to Luviri School (124km + 1'890m of climbing)

MALAWI

Day 76 - Mar 29 - Stage 52

Wednesday: Woke up still suffering from gout (same as yesterday)  in my right knee, so we decided since the majority of the climbing was in the first part of the day, to take the Lunch Truck in the morning to the lunch position, and then to ride from there, to the next Camp at Luviri School (Soccer Field).

This proved to be a very prudent decision as it was raining when we left Mzuzu and the riders had to face a strong headwind, which when combined with the wind-chill-factor, brought the temperature down to about 12-degrees and/or lower. This caused quite a few of the riders to abandon, some suffering from hypothermia,  before even reaching the lunch position.

When we, and a few others who are 'recovering', arrived on the Truck at the lunch position, 70km from the start, I helped the TDA guys to erect the tarpaulin and set up the tables, while Judith assisted with the preparation of the salads.

However we soon realized that the Truck had stopped in an area where there was the possibility of finding some Manganese Pseudo-morph Pyrite Crystals (AKA "black diamonds") !  So we started examining the ground and we were pleasantly rewarded by finding some crystals, which we couldn't actually identify...  so we will have to get them identified properly when back in South Africa. Of course, due to our rock-hounding diversion, we left the lunch position later than planned.

We cycled the remaining 54km to Camp, but started in heavy mist and rain, which fortunately (as the ride progressed) cleared somewhat with the viability getting better.

We arrived at Camp after only being overtaken by three of the racing snakes, but on arrival it was already looking like a tent town, since a lot of riders had abandoned and had been picked up by the Main Truck and Tallis's bakkie (his 4x4 pick-up).


A few of us took a walk to the local market, but the locals were not that friendly, especially since we tried to take some photographs (In fact they were quite pissed off that we took photos!). So I soon left and walked back to Camp, what is it with the Malawians? 

Leo the Bike Mechanic fixed my rear rim, the rear cones needed tightening & bearing's leaned + greased. Also, some of the spokes needed to be realigned and tightened. My heavy frame (my body that is, not the bike frame itself) and the many rumble strips encountered on the Malawian roads, are just not compatible with smooth riding.

It was an evening without beers, as I was trying to cure my bout of gout (not that it was alcohol induced?). The staff gave us a very lekker (great) braai - then it was off to bed early.

It rained heavily during the night, but our tent erection skills and rain-proofing strategies are finally paying off, and we tend to keep relatively dry. Long may that last.

Cheers,
Mike T

Judith assisting with the salads for today's lunch

Departing the Lunch Truck in heavy mist

Someone had a Big Oop's Moment !! along the side of the road

Locals selling pink & orange mushrooms on the side of the road

Judith pointing out the great Malawian rock formations

Arrival at Luviri School Soccer Field

Our unidentified Lunch Truck crystals

Organised chaos at the Luviri Market 

"Kom ons gaan nou lekker braai" (lets have a good barbecue now)

Bikes huddling together discussing the days ride

Some Riders relaxing playing cards

Others relaxing playing an African board game

While others fix their punctures (Kyle Cosmo)

This evening's Briefing was given by Wynand

Four hungry Riders behaving nicely & waiting for their supper to arrive...

Stage 53 cming up - Luviri School to Kasungu

Malawian sunset after an eventful day

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Day 49 - Lake Bunyonyi Overland Resort (Rest Day)

Leo the Bike Mechanic retro fitting the replacement rear wheel to my bike.

Thursday, 2 March: The Resort is situated in the most picturesque of places, among the vibrant vegetation surrounding the shore of Lake Bunyonyi. The amenities are great. An observation deck overlooking the Lake, two bars, and two dining areas. The perfect place for a TDA Rest Day.

Generally the quality of the food was great, although it often involved a long wait while being prepared in the kitchen. Unfortunately... the only real gripe, a breakfast at the Restaurant that was one of the worst I have had this entire trip, and at a self-paying establishment.

I took the opportunity and handed in our laundry, we were told, due to the inclement  weather, we had a 50% chance that it wouldn't be dry - not the most ideal of situations.

Travelling with wet clothes in your bags is a big no-no! Fortunately, our clothes were returned relatively dry.

Spent some quality time with Leo at today's  Bike Clinic, he managed to retro-fit Sharita's rear wheel to my bike, so I am up and running again for the immediate stages. Hopefully it will last until I can make alternative arrangements for another rear wheel.

I promptly suggested to the other heavier riders that they check their rear rims for damage, Murray found two minor cracks on his rear rim, he will monitor them to see if they propagate or remain stable. 

Murray carefully examining his rear rim for cracks

We ordered some print to order T-Shirts from a couple of enterprising locals, depicting the Mountain Gorillas (didn't get any the last time we visited the area on our Gorilla Trip) so it was rather fortuitous for us. It was a one day service, and we collected them at 5pm.

Choosing the desired motifs for our T-Shirts

Our belated Mountain Gorilla T-Shirts
(Gorillas in the mist, Muzungu's in the mud being very appropriate)

Between Liz and Rob, they organised for us to have our 4 000km Achieved photo taken, we had passed the 4 000km mark yesterday while cycling into Bunyonyi. Unfortunately, not all the eligible riders were available for the group photo, as some where out and about doing other things. 

Some of the riders pose for the 4 000 km Completed photo

Simon and Anmei out on the Lake enjoying some recreational rowing 

Murray organised a late afternoon boat cruise along a portion of the Lake (for 15 of us) which was most enjoyable. We were accompanied by Derrick, our own dedicated Guide, who was most informative. The Lake has numerous Islands, ranging from large to very small. 

One of the smallest, Punishment Island, was previously used as a dumping ground for unwed pregnant women, who were banished there to fend for themselves, with many of them perishing a slow death. The only way off the Island, was if a male from another clan, "rescued" her to take her as his free wife (without having to pay Lobola).

Boarding the boat for our late afternoon cruise

Getting ready to cruise on Lake Bunyonyi

View of part of the Resort from the Lake

Small and inhospitable "Punishment Island"

The majority of the riders closed off the day with a buffet dinner, which was combined with a belated birthday celebration for Alex. Who initially wanted no celebrations and no birthday cake, but the riders and staff had other ideas. 

A total of three birthday cakes were ordered from the Resort, and it can be said with great authority, that cake baking in Bunyonyi is not one of the Resorts fortes. Come back Chef Errol, your cake baking skills are sorely missed!

Cheers,

Mike T

Liz having some quality time

Late evening Buffet Dinner

Alex celebrates her belated birthday accompanied by Murray and Rupert

Alex's birthday cakes supplied by the Resort

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Day 29 - Bus Ride Rest Day (from Border to Khartoum)

Waiting for the bus, that's us! -

Friday: Sudan/Ethiopia Border to Khartoum  (8 hr bus ride)

06:00 - Up early, packed up the tent and our holiday bags (no cycling for the next 8 days). Had a cup of coffee and a breakfast, all this while it was still relatively dark. Then walked with our bikes to the bus waiting for us, at the main road. If the bus won't come to us, then we don't have much option, but to walk to the bus with our bikes.

Loaded bags onto bus, then of course not a major surprise, but  there was no space for our bikes, so we left them on the side of the road,  with Leo the Bike Mechanic in charge.

Bus Company supposed to be sending another Bus/Truck to fetch and transport them to Khartoum for us? I suppose time will tell if they get there before dark.

Took a luxury bus back to Khartoum, very spacey and ultra modern, even got to watch the movie - Fast and Furious 5 nogal - on the on-board tv screen. First time I have sat in front of a T.V screen in nearly 4 weeks.

The bikes can't fit into the bus...

All ready to go back to Khartoum!

Happiness is a luxury bus load of cyclists :)

Arrived at the Grand Hotel Villa, found ourselves a pleasant camp spot on the lawn and pitched the tent. Decided to camp instead of hotel-ing like we did last time. We need only sleep over for one night, and we found the hotel very over-priced the last time we were here. We also have 6 days in Nairobi coming up, and need to conserve our funds. 

Took a proper shower for the first time in 7-days (going to miss those donkey washes for a while). A most pleasant experience, having the luxury of hot and cold water at your beckoning.

In the evening, 12 of us went off and walked to the Mall, then had dinner at Layali Al Waha Restaurant just located outside the Mall. It was a most pleasant dinning experience, and all agreed the food had been great.

Then into the Mall, for some of their famous ice cream (Judith had 3 and I had 5 scoops). We followed this up with a very casual cappuccino, lounging around in the Coffee Shop. 

Group of us then took a taxi back to the Hotel, to find our bikes waiting patiently for us on the grass camping area. A most pleasant night out in Khartoum.

Cheers, 
Mike T

Thirst-Quenching Lemon and Mint drink

One of Khartoum's many statues

A group of us out having dinner at the Mall

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Day 14 - Stage 12 - Wadi Halfa to Farka (145 km)

Thursday: Another long day of riding.

After breakfast we were one of the first to leave camp at Wadi Halfa, as we knew we would be in for some quality time on our bikes.

We reached Lunch at the 79 km mark escorted by Brad the sweep rider, who patiently listened to some of our "remember when" stories (they certainly help pass the time and make the kilometers fly-by)

Appearance of the Sudan country side has changed from desert sand to sand & rocks; to just rocks (occasional tree now and then) definitely different to what we were used to in Egypt. Unfortunately, just like yesterday, I'm still having trouble uploading pictures, so they will have to be posted on the blog in installments at a later stage.

First and only Coke Stop of the day was after lunch at some small village, where artisan miners were digging for gold. We stopped there for quite a while while I investigated some of the mining and crushing facilities.

Judith and I had a good days ride, and although we arrived at Farka Camp last, with second half sweep rider Leo, we nevertheless thought we did quite a good time, taking all things into consideration. 

We had to pitch the tent in a seriously strong wind, but our tent pitching skills have improved to such an extent that it didn't take us long, and "the house" was up without any hassle.

From Camp, we walked down to the Nile River for my first wash in the Nile, there are no washing or ablution facilities at the Farka Camp site.

After the briefing session, it was supper time followed by bed time ("early to bed and early to rise, makes Jack a dull boy"). Its going to be a very interesting  night trying to sleep in the howling wind...

Cheers,

Mike T

#ThrowbackThursday in Sudan:  - Stage 5 (Egypt)



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