Day 50 - Stage 35 - Lake Bunyonyi to Kigali (116 km)

Friday, 3 March: Today we crossed from Southern Uganda into Rwanda, our 5th African country, but not before we had to cycle out from Lake Bunyonyi over the hill and down and back into Kabale Town. In Rwanda we will have to cycle on the right hand side of the road again.

Being a rest day yesterday, Riders Briefing is held prior to an early breakfast. Its going to be a long day, with a Border crossing included.

We leave Lake Bunyonyi and immediately have our first dirt road ascent, quite a mean climb up the hill, followed by a fast descent to the tar road. Cycle back into Kabale Town, then turn onto the main road to the Border. Cycle most of the way in heavy mist (advantageous since you can't see the hills waiting for you).

We arrive at the Ugandan/Rwandan Border, clear Uganda without any hassles, in Rwanda we are not so lucky. We have to hand your passport in, then you get an invoice, which you take to the Bank of Kigali where you pay USD$30 for a visa, get a receipt which you then take back to the original window and wait for your passport to be stamped with an entry visa and entry stamp.

It takes at least two hours for Judith and I to enter Rwanda, we arrived at the Border within the first half of riders, but left last, which is not advantageous when you are a relatively slow rider and need to get to the lunch truck as soon as possible and it's about 30km away from the Border.

The ride to the lunch truck was very picturesque and we were accompanied by many of the local taxi/transport cyclists. Cycling is big in Rwanda. My new rear wheel behaved itself up to the Border, however on the way to the lunch truck it developed an irritating wobble and associated noise. Helen the Sweep Rider said it sounded like a steam engine!

We reach the lunch truck last and are just in time to witness two local lads grab a couple of loaves of bread, while Wynand was being distracted by the crowd. They run off with it down the hill, much to the delight of the local spectators. Rwanda is definitely different to Uganda.

Judith is not feeling well, and she decides to take the lunch truck, I join her. My replacement rear wheel is not behaving itself, and we are running late. 

We are the only passengers on the truck, all the other non-riders have taken the Main Truck into Kigali. We both fall asleep almost immediately, they do stop and wake us up to see a waterfall en route, but we soon go back to sleep, and only wake up at our destination, Discover Rwanda Backpackers. Definitely not the triumphant entry into Kigali we had planned, and a big self-induced disappointment from our side.

We fetch and move our bags to our allocated room (we have kindly been given a double room) and we join the majority of the riders for beers on the Terrace. Another Country, another set of different beers to be tasted, if I want to keep my EFB Status. 

We will be staying at the Backpackers for the next three nights, this will enable a lot of the riders the opportunity to see the Mountain Gorillas in Rwanda. We have previously seen the Gorillas, so we will not be taking up this opportunity.

We make sure to switch our watches back by one hour (back to RSA time). 

Cheers,

Mike T

Liz enjoying the picturesque Rwandan countryside 

Briefing Meeting - Lake Bunyonyi to Kigali

Paul and Judith cycling out from the Lake

View of Lake Bunyonyi from the top of the Hill

Cycling down on the dirt road  to get to Kabale Town

Artisnal mining for aggregate alongside the road in Southern Uganda

Clearing the Ugandan Immigration Office

Waiting on the Rwandan side of the Border

Hurry up, and wait.... to get into Rwanda

Rwanda home to Primus Beer

Typical Rwandan countryside

Rwandan cyclists taking advantage of the trucks to tow them up the hills

Locals at the lunch truck taking photos of the Muzungus

Rwandan Waterfall en route to Kigali

Erin very happy about the size of the beers in Rwanda

Unloading the riders bags at the Backpackers Lodge

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Day 49 - Lake Bunyonyi Overland Resort (Rest Day)

Leo the Bike Mechanic retro fitting the replacement rear wheel to my bike.

Thursday, 2 March: The Resort is situated in the most picturesque of places, among the vibrant vegetation surrounding the shore of Lake Bunyonyi. The amenities are great. An observation deck overlooking the Lake, two bars, and two dining areas. The perfect place for a TDA Rest Day.

Generally the quality of the food was great, although it often involved a long wait while being prepared in the kitchen. Unfortunately... the only real gripe, a breakfast at the Restaurant that was one of the worst I have had this entire trip, and at a self-paying establishment.

I took the opportunity and handed in our laundry, we were told, due to the inclement  weather, we had a 50% chance that it wouldn't be dry - not the most ideal of situations.

Travelling with wet clothes in your bags is a big no-no! Fortunately, our clothes were returned relatively dry.

Spent some quality time with Leo at today's  Bike Clinic, he managed to retro-fit Sharita's rear wheel to my bike, so I am up and running again for the immediate stages. Hopefully it will last until I can make alternative arrangements for another rear wheel.

I promptly suggested to the other heavier riders that they check their rear rims for damage, Murray found two minor cracks on his rear rim, he will monitor them to see if they propagate or remain stable. 

Murray carefully examining his rear rim for cracks

We ordered some print to order T-Shirts from a couple of enterprising locals, depicting the Mountain Gorillas (didn't get any the last time we visited the area on our Gorilla Trip) so it was rather fortuitous for us. It was a one day service, and we collected them at 5pm.

Choosing the desired motifs for our T-Shirts

Our belated Mountain Gorilla T-Shirts
(Gorillas in the mist, Muzungu's in the mud being very appropriate)

Between Liz and Rob, they organised for us to have our 4 000km Achieved photo taken, we had passed the 4 000km mark yesterday while cycling into Bunyonyi. Unfortunately, not all the eligible riders were available for the group photo, as some where out and about doing other things. 

Some of the riders pose for the 4 000 km Completed photo

Simon and Anmei out on the Lake enjoying some recreational rowing 

Murray organised a late afternoon boat cruise along a portion of the Lake (for 15 of us) which was most enjoyable. We were accompanied by Derrick, our own dedicated Guide, who was most informative. The Lake has numerous Islands, ranging from large to very small. 

One of the smallest, Punishment Island, was previously used as a dumping ground for unwed pregnant women, who were banished there to fend for themselves, with many of them perishing a slow death. The only way off the Island, was if a male from another clan, "rescued" her to take her as his free wife (without having to pay Lobola).

Boarding the boat for our late afternoon cruise

Getting ready to cruise on Lake Bunyonyi

View of part of the Resort from the Lake

Small and inhospitable "Punishment Island"

The majority of the riders closed off the day with a buffet dinner, which was combined with a belated birthday celebration for Alex. Who initially wanted no celebrations and no birthday cake, but the riders and staff had other ideas. 

A total of three birthday cakes were ordered from the Resort, and it can be said with great authority, that cake baking in Bunyonyi is not one of the Resorts fortes. Come back Chef Errol, your cake baking skills are sorely missed!

Cheers,

Mike T

Liz having some quality time

Late evening Buffet Dinner

Alex celebrates her belated birthday accompanied by Murray and Rupert

Alex's birthday cakes supplied by the Resort

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Day 48 - The Ugandan Hills! (1400m of climbing)

Wednesday, 1 March: And so it was with trepidation that I embarked on a solo cycling day, i.e. without Michael, whilst he rode on the TDA Truck & looked into solutions to replace his rear rim.

It was a tough, but great ride, together with some of the ladies until lunch, where they boarded the Lunch Truck. The day's climbing was approx. 1400m over just 95km, on what looked like the tarred equivalent of our Swartberg Pass near Prince Albert, with lots of switchbacks to get to the top of the first major climb after lunch in the rain, followed by a gravel and red-mud climb that was even worse!  

We experienced thick mist & rain most of the way, to the extent that my foot slipped right out of my shoe on an uphill stroke!  I was absolutely soaked.  However, I was so chuffed that my uphill cycling legs were back and I had managed three hill-climbing days in a row. 

Here's to cycling the many more hills to come!

Judi

Liz and me - the two RSA Ladies before the start of our ride to Lake Bunyonyi

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Day 48 - Stage 34 - Uganda Camp to Lake Bunyonyi (95 km)

Wednesday, 1 March: Another first for me, I climb on the Main Truck, and join Murray, Bridgette & Marie (recovering viral patients) Wendy (leg wound)) and Linda (sprained ankle) who are all on the truck too. No cycling for me today - I experienced a mechanical failure, yesterday.

Judith departs Camp aboard her bicycle, she will be cycling with Suzie and some of the other ladies, and its a big climbing day!  I wish her luck as she

Day 47 - Stage 33 - Mburo (Leopard Rest) to Uganda Lodge (118 km)

Sunrise at Leopard Rest - Uganda

Tuesday: Supposed to be a great day of cycling, but it ends badly for me, no tattoo's, but my first major mechanical failure. Judith on the other hand, had a great day out on the bike.

Start the day by doing 9km on the dirt road back to the tar road, yesterdays final downhills become today's first uphills. 

Michael bringing up the rear (Photo by Rupert Dixon)

Judith loving the dirt road section (Photo by Rupert Dixon)

While cycling behind me, Judith notices

Day 46 - Stage 32 - Kabalungi School to Mburo (65 km)

Main Truck packed-up, in the rain, and ready to depart.

Monday: Woke up and it was raining, we decided to have breakfast first, then to pack up the tent, but it was the wrong decision, we packed up the tent in a much heavier rain. Sometimes you win, other times you lose badly; had to pack the drenched tent into my Daily Bag! :/

As a consequence, we were the last to leave Camp, and we cycled for most of the first half in the rain. Caught up to Liz when she stopped to sample some fried cassava.

Judith couldn't wait

Day 45 - Stage 31 - Ssese Island to Kabalungi School (104 km)

Sunday: An early start again, load bags by 6am, have a quick breakfast and start cycling, today I cycle  with Philip, who is recovering after a bout of runs, he needed to take it easy today. We have to leave early because we need to either to catch the Ferry by 8 am (the racing snakes) or 10 am latest (the rest of us).

Judith decides to take the truck to the Ferry, and to only start riding once on the mainland, she is worried that she might miss the 10 am Ferry. A wise move, as the route to the Ferry is quite hilly and it would have slowed her down considerably - raising her stress levels.

We cycled 34 km on the Island, which consists both of pristine jungle and cultivated lands, with a lot of land dedicated to Palm Nut Oil Production. We arrive early enough to make the 10 am Ferry to the Ugandan Mainland. While waiting at the Ferry, I have a cup of coffee with Natalie, while she enjoys a cup of good Ugandan tea.

We board the Ferry, trucks & cars first, followed by motorbikes, then us cyclists, and lastly the pedestrians. We have a leisurely trip on the Lake and chat a bit to the local truck and motorbike riders.

Cycling through an avenue of Palm Nut trees

Palm Nut grove on the Island

View of the Camp area from the overlooking hill

Riders waiting for the call to board the Ferry

Philip takes the opportunity to enjoy a cooked meilie (corn)

Motobike riders waiting to board after the trucks & cars had boarded.

Park my bike away from the maddening crowd

Riders pace the Ferry looking for a place to rest

Some of the seated riders (three out of four riders are on social media at any one time

Calm comes to the loaded Ferry as it makes its way to the Ugandan Mainland

Passing another Lake Victoria Ferry

The motor vehicles depart the Ferry

The riders getting ready to disembark 

On arrival at the Mainland, we all get off in the same order as we boarded, and us riders start cycling again. I rode with Philip and Muzz.

Just before lunch, we stop at one of the roadside stalls and buy a watermelon and a few mango's, we are joined by Sue & Liz who help us to devour the most delicious and fresh tasting watermelon & mango I've had.

We get to the Lunch Truck and everyone keeps mum about our fruit eating escapades, we don't want Wynand to find out we preferred our own fruit purchase. I couldn't eat lunch... I was just to full of fresh fruit!  Wynand shows us the Jack Fruit which he bought, he says he will cut it up for us to try, in the foreseeable future.

While passing through one of the Villages, we stop at a great big pile of bananas, meet the owner, who tells us its destined for Rwanda, where they will use it to make Banana Wine (will make an effort to taste some when we get to Rwanda).

I enjoy a coke-stop with Philip, Liz and Alex, & hear Nelson fell off his bike (rumor has it, he was  involved in an accident with a motorbike). Sweep Rider Max, leaves us to accompany Nelson to the local Hospital, we carry on sweepless.

Arrive at the school, I took charge and acted as the Sweep Rider (seems I am the most qualified) behind Liz and Philip. We come in after Judith, who had an eventful ride to Camp after the 8 am Ferry trip (at one stage she fell down which resulted in a minor cut to her calf, and she was also caught in the rain).

All the racing snakes arrived at the School in the pouring rain, some even took the opportunity to use the rain as a makeshift shower. Everyone waits under the Main Truck tarpaulin, for the rain to stop before pitching their tents.

Everyone camps on the School Soccer Field, and Sandy and Niklas organise for a case of beers to be delivered - so we at least have access to a cold beer before dinner!

At the Briefing Meeting, we get an update about Nelson, none of the X-Ray machines at the nearest hospitals were in working order, so he was taken to Kampala, but it seems there isn't anything major wrong with him, which is good news.

Very basic Camp, squat toilets and no showers, everyone camps. Have dinner, then take a bottle wash (use my bike water bottle to wash with) & then off to sleep with the pitter-patter of falling rain...

Cheers, 
Mike T

Philip taking photos of the local cattle

Murry & Philip negotiating the price of the watermelon and mango's

Eating our watermelon and mango's

Wynand showing off his Jack Fruit

Today's last coke stop with Phillip, Liz and Alex

The pile of bananas destined for Rwanda to be made into wine

Philip and Liz arrive at the School

"Racing Snake" Charles takes the opportunity to wash in the rain

Putting up the tent before the rain returns 

Riders Briefing for tomorrow's ride.

Briefing Board for tomorrow's ride

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