Nieuwoudtville to Clanwilliam (136km) - South Africa

South Africa

Day 118 – May 10 – Stage 84

Sunrise over a chilly Nieuwoudtville

Started the ride with Philip, and left a still-sleeping and cold Nieuwoudtville; riding to lunch on one of the worst corrugated roads we have encountered on the whole trip, it made the corrugated roads in Sudan, Namibia and Namaqualand  look like nursery school training rides! There was no regularity to them, it was just a continuous jumble of irregular, rock-filled corrugations, where riders were unable to pick a preferred line. At approximately 50km into the corrugations, I had a rare sense of humour failure, fortunately not witnessed by any of the other riders, as Philip had left me on my own to battle my own demons.

Philip setting out from Camp final destination Clanwilliam

Closer to lunch, I was joined by Peter (Peter the 4th) and the dirt road improved considerably, as we approached the Botterkloof Pass, where we were treated to an amazing vista. While the ride down the Pass was truly sensational, it was long, fast and a white-knuckle occasion,. We were travelling at high speeds down a Pass which had no side railings whatsoever separating us and the steep drop-off into the valley floor below.

Arriving at the top of Botterkloof Pass

Peter 4 admiring the view from the Pass

At 70km I reached the lunch position, had a long slow lunch while most of the back markers and the Sweep Rider caught up to me, then decided I had ridden enough dirt roads for the day, and caught the Lunch Truck. Peter joined me later, when he flagged the truck down as we passed him.  He had also decided to take a break from the dirt roads.

Arriving at the lunch position

Liz enjoying some grapes at lunch

We stopped at the coffee shop previously known as Khoisan Kitchen (the day’s designated Coke Stop) for Coffee and Ice-cream (with coffee sauce) before continuing onto Clanwilliam.

As the Bokkeveld gave way to the Cederberg Mountains we were treated to some amazing views of the Cederberg.

The start of the Cederberg Mountains

Deborah about to enjoy her cake at the designated Coke Stop

Both Judith and Murray did not cycle on the day, and on arrival in Clanwilliam, they went shopping in Town, where they bought cheese, biscuits and wine for our planned “Seniors Ditch Day” tomorrow.  A group of us had decided to skip Stage 85 (because we can) and to have our own Cheese & Wine in the “Dog Box” (Main Truck) tomorrow while traveling from Clanwilliam to Dorp-op-die-Berg.

Camp was situated at the Clanwilliam Dam, where we were joined by Charles’s parents, Anthony and Colleen Butler, who would be following us for the next three days all the way into Cape Town. Tony had been a Sectional Rider and had ridden with us through Malawi.

Cheers,
Mike T

Charles's Parents Colleen & Tony talking to Judith and Peter 1

Riders relaxing and enjoying some quality time at the Clanwilliam Dam Camp Site

Tallis at this evenings Briefing Session

Briefing board - Clanwilliam to Dorp op die Berg (tomorrow's ride)

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Day 31 - Our Flight to Nairobi - Kenya

Sunday: The experience at the Khartoum Airport was one of utter chaos, it started with us trying to get into the Departures Terminal through only one door, past the throng of people, all with the same intention. Moreover, we were accompanied by these huge cardboard bike boxes which needed manhandling and could barely fit through the security x-ray machine. 

We hustled our way into the Terminal Building,  but not before we were overwhelmed by a horde of Porters from Hell. Even though we protested vehemently, they wouldn't accept "no!" for an answer, and manhandled our boxes and luggage through the Security Checkpoint  to the Kenyan Air  book-in cubicles anyway.

They then demanded monetary gratuities, in some instances up to three Porters demanding a tip for carrying one piece of luggage. To make things worse, we had no money, having got rid of our excess Sudanese Pounds earlier. In some instances, due to the language barrier, negotiations with them became rather heated.

Fortunately an Airport Official intervened, and managed to get the Porters to leave. However, our problems were not over.

Once booked in, the Air Kenya appointed Porters, demanded payment to transport our bike boxes to the "Oversize Luggage" Section, and another standoff ensued. 

This was once again only resolved by the intervention of some other high ranking official, but not before relations between Sudanese and foreign tourists had come within breaking point of outright war. One rider, already in possession of The Pacifier Award, was trying very hard for a double award!!

Once through into the Boarding Area, things managed to calm down, and we were able to regroup and relax, although at the back of our minds, we still wondered if our bike boxes had made it through to be loaded onto the plane.

We boarded the plane as per instruction and took off according to schedule. The flight went well, breakfast was served at 3.30am. Philip was the official designated winner of the "First to have a Beer Award" when he asked the Air Hostess for a beer and  managed to have a beer with his breakfast in the early hours of the morning. Such dedication to the cause needs to be nurtured and admired. Well done Philip.

Judith and I on the other hand, had our breakfast and proceeded to sleep all the way to our destination.


Arrival in Kenya: Nairobi Airport was an utter pleasure compared to Khartoum. It didn't take us long and we were all processed through Immigration, made it to the luggage pickup area, where miracle of miracles, our bike boxes awaited us (although much worse for wear and tear). Then we were out of the Arrivals Terminal and greeted by our Designated Kenyan Driver.


We boarded a Shuttle Bus and were driven to Wildebeest Eco Lodge which was located in the  Karen area and on the opposite side of Nairobi City, it was the designated TDA Camp for the next 6 days. 

Mark & Philip and Sunrise in Nairobi 

Negotiating the Airport Parking Lot

Loading up the Shuttle Bus - bikes and all.

Wendy and Tom taking time out for a photo shoot

After booking in, some of the riders chose to camp, while others elected to take up available accommodation (at own cost). We then regrouped and had breakfast at the Eco Lodge, and a couple of us, had our first beer - with breakfast!

Nothing like a cold Pilsner with Breakfast!

At breakfast, Judith and I met up with a fellow South African, Johnny Lawrence whom we know from our days in Rustenburg (he was the Best Man at Oliver and Lentie Page's Wedding). He has been in Kenya since 2012 and was camping at the Lodge with his young son - It is such a small world indeed.


We did not book in though, as we were going to be hosted for the majority of our stay in Nairobi, by Robert and Julie Pilkington, the parents of Richard, one of our son's friends in Cape Town.

I thumbed a lift to the nearest Mall with Errol and Brad from TDA, where I went through the usual ritual of  changing  $USD for local currency - Kenyan Shillings - and loading our cell phones with local sim cards.

Robert and his Dad Jack, fetched us after their golf excursion at 2pm, and took us with all of our luggage (we left the bikes at the Eco Lodge) to their house, where we met up with Robert's wife, Julie. 

Later that evening we were treated to a great braai (BBQ) with much beer & wine consumed by yours truly, a good end to an eventful day.

Cheers, 
Mike T

Riders having breakfast at Wildebeest Eco Lodge

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Day 30 - Rest Day Khartoum - Boxing bikes & Dips in the Pool

Saturday: Had a relatively good night's sleep camped out on the grass at the Grand Hotel Villa, Judith had breakfast at the Hotel, I couldn't face food so early in the morning (maybe I overdid the ice-cream last night?).

We had a very chilled rest day, the main attraction being the boxing of our bikes which we will be taking with us on the flight to Nairobi. Boxes and tape were supplied by TDA and all we had to do was dismantle the bikes and fit them into the boxes, then seal them up ready for shipment.

I think Kenya Air are going to have a minor sense of humor failure, when 15 TDA riders pitch up to their flight from Khartoum to Nairobi, with their luggage and bike boxes, we are certainly going to have an interesting time booking in.

Used the opportunity in the afternoon to spend some quality time in the Hotel swimming pool, was joined in the pool by Muzz. 

Packed up our tent, packed up our bags and had a late buffet dinner at the Hotel, before lounging around at the pool area, waiting for the shuttle to take us to the Airport at 11.30 pm.

Our flight from Khartoum to Nairobi takes off at 02:55 tomorrow morning, its going to be a long night at the Airport (especially for us TDA riders who are used to going to bed at 8pm latest !).

Nairobi, Kenya - here we come. 

Cheers, 

Mike T

Muzz and I taking advantage of the Hotel pool -

Boxing our bikes on the lawn

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Day 29 - Bus Ride Rest Day (from Border to Khartoum)

Waiting for the bus, that's us! -

Friday: Sudan/Ethiopia Border to Khartoum  (8 hr bus ride)

06:00 - Up early, packed up the tent and our holiday bags (no cycling for the next 8 days). Had a cup of coffee and a breakfast, all this while it was still relatively dark. Then walked with our bikes to the bus waiting for us, at the main road. If the bus won't come to us, then we don't have much option, but to walk to the bus with our bikes.

Loaded bags onto bus, then of course not a major surprise, but  there was no space for our bikes, so we left them on the side of the road,  with Leo the Bike Mechanic in charge.

Bus Company supposed to be sending another Bus/Truck to fetch and transport them to Khartoum for us? I suppose time will tell if they get there before dark.

Took a luxury bus back to Khartoum, very spacey and ultra modern, even got to watch the movie - Fast and Furious 5 nogal - on the on-board tv screen. First time I have sat in front of a T.V screen in nearly 4 weeks.

The bikes can't fit into the bus...

All ready to go back to Khartoum!

Happiness is a luxury bus load of cyclists :)

Arrived at the Grand Hotel Villa, found ourselves a pleasant camp spot on the lawn and pitched the tent. Decided to camp instead of hotel-ing like we did last time. We need only sleep over for one night, and we found the hotel very over-priced the last time we were here. We also have 6 days in Nairobi coming up, and need to conserve our funds. 

Took a proper shower for the first time in 7-days (going to miss those donkey washes for a while). A most pleasant experience, having the luxury of hot and cold water at your beckoning.

In the evening, 12 of us went off and walked to the Mall, then had dinner at Layali Al Waha Restaurant just located outside the Mall. It was a most pleasant dinning experience, and all agreed the food had been great.

Then into the Mall, for some of their famous ice cream (Judith had 3 and I had 5 scoops). We followed this up with a very casual cappuccino, lounging around in the Coffee Shop. 

Group of us then took a taxi back to the Hotel, to find our bikes waiting patiently for us on the grass camping area. A most pleasant night out in Khartoum.

Cheers, 
Mike T

Thirst-Quenching Lemon and Mint drink

One of Khartoum's many statues

A group of us out having dinner at the Mall

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Day 28 - Stage 24 - Rashid to Sudan Border (92 km)

Thursday: Our last stage ride in Sudan, and Judith and I both got the "Lunch Truck Bogeyman" off our shoulders, not an easy day, but a great day's riding (physiologically speaking of course).

Only cycled a short 1 km from camp on the dirt, before joining the main tar road to the Sudan/Ethiopian Border. However the tar road was very rough and potholed, but with our MTB tires and front suspension, our bikes could handle the constant road vibrations, and I was blessed with a smiling Judith for most of the day.

The ride went well, for the both of us, and even though the temperature was up in the high 40 degrees C again, we got to the lunch truck at 68 km, and continued on after lunch (although I could only eat the watermelon and no other solid food's) and finished the ride at the Sudan/Ethiopia Border.

However the day was not without incident for others, many of the riders had punctures (some had multiple punctures) or mechanical breakdowns. While a couple of riders fell ill during the ride. Mark (USA) fell off his bike and suffered a suspected wrist fracture. It can all be attributed to the bad road conditions, extreme heat of the last four days and general physiological condition.

We took it easy, had our first coke stop at 49Km, then a tea/coffee stop at 54Km, before stopping for lunch at 68Km. After lunch we had one last coke stop at 84Km, before completing the 92Km distance. At all of the stops we were accompanied by other riders, so it was quite festive out on the road today.

Once at camp, we had to separate our luggage into two bags each, one bag going by truck to Nairobi via Ethiopia, the other coming with us to Nairobi. Some riders have also left their bikes on the truck, but we decided to take ours with us to Nairobi, the risk of damage to our bikes just seems to be overly high.

Tomorrow (Friday), the riders and some of the TDA Management will be bused back to Khartoum (an eight hour bus ride) while the TDA vehicle's will cross into Ethiopia and make their way through Ethiopia, to Nairobi in  Kenya.

Wynand the Lunch Truck Commander, did remind me that he will be cracking his first cold beer tomorrow evening in Ethiopia, while us other peasants have to wait another two sleepies before we get our beer privileges back, thanks Wynand!!

We will be staying at the same venue in Khartoum, as we did on our first arrival there (but we will be camping not hotel-ing). Will box our bikes, before flying to Nairobi on a Kenyan  Airways flight, in the early hours of Sunday, 12th of February. 

After riders briefing, we had an unofficial Section Presentation, presented by Paul Farrow, where both Judith and Liz from "Team  RSA" received awards. 

Judith was presented with the "Pacifier Award" (a floating trophy) for kicking her bike and using unsavory language after she had taken a tumble. While Liz was presented with the "Yellow Jersey Award" for being the most persistent rider over the last 6 day section.

It was Mark's (UK) birthday today, so we got chocolate cake with sauce after supper. Mark was also the Desert Sands Section Winner (narrowly beating Muzz by 7 minutes) so all in all, he had a great day today. 

Although a bit of an anti-climax today, we are at the Ethiopian Border, but will not cross into Ethiopia, but go back to Khartoum.

More news & stories soon!

Cheers,

Mike T

British Engineering

Peter and Deborah back on tar

Basic roadside fracture mechanics (note mirror zone and hackle zone)

Muzz cycling in local attire assisting Andje with her puncture

Liz organizing water at our first Coke Stop

The ladies having some quality time

Trixie and Max - today's Sweep Rider

Austin needing some love and attention

Tea & Coffee being made

Coffee Waiter extraordinaire 

Muzz explaining things to the locals

Today's lunch stop

Lunch Truck notice board 

Arriving at the coke stop between lunch and finish 

Lister Pump is both pumping water and running an electrical generator 

Niklas keeping clean (I promised his Mother I would make sure he washed as often as possible) 

Philip has developed his own form of yoga since cycling through Sudan

Liz repacking her holiday bag oblivious to those around her

Tomorrow's bus ride briefing board

Judith receiving the " Pacifier Award" 

Liz receiving the "Yellow Jersey" for being the Sections most persistent / consistent rider

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Day 27 - Stage 23 - Abeda to Rashid (82 km)

Sunrise on day 27

Our first Baobab sighting in Africa

Its going to be another hot day today

The blog posts are still coming through thick and fast, albeit a bit behind time-wise. But hey, the best stories are always those from the past, and worth remembering, so I hope you will forgive me. 

Wednesday: Those riders who suffered from heat exhaustion and heat stroke yesterday, didn't ride today, just as well, as it was just as hot as it was yesterday.

We left camp and only after a short 3km ride, rode into the artisinal gold mining area of Albada, stopped a bakkie full of people to ask about the mining, fortunately it was a bunch of Exploration  Geologists. Managed to get a short explanation about the local geology and mode of gold mineralization, albeit in broken English. Then pushed on, as Judith had ridden off into the sunrise.

Judith pointing out the exploration trenches in the hill side

Michael and the Group of Exploration Geologists 

Judith had her first puncture of the tour, although it was only a slow leak we decided to replace the tube for her, with a little help from our friends of course.

Found it extremely hot again, and had to stop every 4 to 5 km to rest in the shade of a tree, if there was one available.

I was nauseous by the time we got to lunch, couldn't eat so stopped cycling and climbed into lunch truck. Judith's batteries were also flat, so she joined me. A good decision as we would never have made it in the intense Sudanese heat (and this is their Winter heat!!)

But not before we got into trouble again, a kilometer before lunch, I took Judith, Trixie and Dr. Helen (The day's sweep rider) deep into a Village looking for cold cokes. Found a great place to stop (it even had music) and we proceeded to make new friends and have a general conversation with the locals.

Unfortunately TDA Management couldn't get through to Helen on her Satellite phone, and they thought that we were lost, and they had no idea exactly where. They then asked the lunch truck personnel to try and find us, so by the time we got to the lunch truck, they had already packed up and were about to come and look for us.

We were not popular with the lunch truck guys or afternoon sweep rider... when they  then had to unpack the truck and set everything up again to feed us. Nor did we score any brownie points with TDA Management either. But hey, all's well that ends well.

Rode back to camp in the truck and stopped at another coke stop approx. 6Km from camp, bought more soft drinks - our thirst is just so relentless. I have drunk more coke/fizzy drinks these last three weeks than I have drunk in the last three years! Even Judith lies in the tent craving coke in the evenings (don't tell the children).

Arrived at camp and had our usual donkey wash, sat around relaxing until briefing & dinner, then only set up our tent in the twilight toward the end of the day (much cooler then).

Tomorrow is the last day before the Ethiopian  Border, and the road surface is supposed to be paved. Most riders changed back to slick tires from their MTB tires. We haven't, hopefully it wasn't the wrong decision - tomorrow will tell.

Cheers,

Mike T

Sudanese rural brick fields

Coke Stop deep in the Village

Judith negotiating the price of the cold drinks

You can't leave the coke stop without the obligatory photo session

After action satisfaction - Coke

Sudanese Blacksmith with metal forge 

Blacksmith with very rudimentary tools

Land Rover - Opening up Africa for others to follow

Philip getting ready for his donkey wash

The Donkey wash suppliers waiting to sell water to the riders

Riders chilling in the shade out of the hot sun

Briefing - Tomorrows last ride in the Sudan

Chef Errol busy with dinner

Chef Muli busy with the vegetarians dinner

True love is taking her out for dinner

Supper and tire changing time again

Very relaxed dinners...

Niklas waiting for the heat to subside so that he can put up his tent

Africa home of the majestic Baobab tree

Another Sudanese sunset

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