The Treloar Herald : Malawi

Showing posts with label Malawi. Show all posts

Lilongwe to Chipata [Mama Rulas Camp] (152km with 800m climbing)

MALAWI - ZAMBIA

Day 80 - Apr 2 - Stage 55

Left Lilongwe after an average type of Rest Day, fortunately it was a Sunday, so the traffic was relatively quiet as we passed through the CBD of the City on our way to the next Country, Zambia - which we were both looking forward to visiting since it is the land of my birth.

I wanted to see how much the Country had changed, and it has been 50 years since I left the then young Independent Republic, and immigrated with my parents Ken and May Treloar, to South Africa. My parents had been in the then "Northern Rhodesia", since 1945 after the Second World War, and left to go South in 1967. I had not been back officially to Zambia since then.

After riding 80km, Judith got on the TDA Cruiser to rather ride to the Border, as she felt she would hold the border crossing procedures up by getting there too late if she continued cycling, a wise decision as we were actually running late.

The Malawian kids were still shouting, "Give me my money" which had by now become quite boring, although I did get a, "Give me my cell phone" which was soon followed by a, "Give me my bike". Hell, what was I expected to do, donate my bike to some kid and then walk to Cape Town!??

After lunch, I cycled the 42km to the Border, but had a Coke Stop on the way with Liz, Marie and Helen the Sweep Rider. Once at the Border, crossing out of Malawi and into Zambia was absolutely painless.

On the Zambian side, the Immigration Official noticed from my passport that I was Zambian born, and said, "Welcome back to Zambia!" How cool was that!

Amazingly once across the Border, the call of "Give me money" by the kids immediately stopped! It was replaced by a chirpy, "Mzungu, how are you?" What an absolute pleasure....

The road surface on the Zambian side was just perfect, rode the final 30km to the Camp with Marie, who kindly allowed me to draught behind her for the complete 30km, and she didn't cycle slowly either, we averaged a decent 30 km/hr!

Arrived at the Mama Rulas Camp, had a few beers while I waited for Judith to arrive (she was with some of the TDA Staff doing some shopping in Chipata) before doing my tent erection duties. We decided to camp as it didn't look like it was going to rain.

Mama Rulas Camp had a great Bar, named "The Pit Stop", the beers were relatively cheap, cold, and plentiful, and a good time was had by all.

A local Indian fellow came to the Camp to assist us in changing our money from Malawian Kwacha to Zambian Kwacha, or to exchange US Dollars for Zambian Kwacha. Some of the Riders said he looked like my Brother, but just from another Mother!

Of all the Camps we had camped in so far on the Tour, Mama Rulas was one of the best we have encountered, and hopefully a taste of things to come in Zambia.

Tomorrow is a long day, 176km from Chipata to Petauke, don't know what Judith is going to do, will she ride the whole distance or only part of it? Tomorrow will tell.

Cheers,
Mike T

Could this be my long lost Brother ?

I don't know how the car got into the mielies

(corn) but it got their proper!

Crossing a Bridge on our way towards Zambia

Liz and Marie at the Coke Stop waiting for Sweep Rider Helen to catch up with us

Chipata in Zambia has dedicated cycle lanes which were such a pleasure.

We are starting to see more and more home comforts & brands we recognize as we progress further South...

Ah Spar, "one wherever you are!"

The "Pit Stop" was well received at Mama Rula's

Riders enjoying quality time at the Pit Stop

Finally, the chance to drink my first "Mosi" in Zambia!

Come on the "Lions" my favorite Rugby Franchise.

Andrew and Linda taking some time out.

Judith taking advantage of a clear sky and hanging out some washing

Tomorrow's ride - Chipata to Petauke

Yup, a good time had by all who frequented the Pit Stop.

Alex finally conceding defeat and realizing she had eaten enough

Tallis making new friends at Mama Rula's

Rest Day in Lilongwe, Malawi

MALAWI

Day 79 - Apr 1 - Rest Day

Saturday: Rest Day in Lilongwe, and it's already the 1st of April!!
Time is definitely starting to fly (especially when you are having fun).

We are currently here!

Judith's Permanent Bag is soaking wet, there is a leak in the roof of the Main Truck and a few of the riders also get their bags back...saturated! She spends most of her rest day time getting everything dry!

I change my slick tyres (both my old slicks have cuts in the tyres) for new ones, brought along a set of foldable slicks for both Judith and I and it seems as if it was the right decision to take them along.

I spend the day watching Super Rugby on the TV in the Bar having decided to have a very low-key rest day, which suits both Judith and I. Between the New Zealanders, Australians and us South Africans, we have a festive time watching Super Rugby. Thankfully the Lions manage to beat the Sharks right at the end.

Three new sectional riders join us, Thomas & Roman from Germany and Chris from Canada. The two Germans will leave us again when we reach Livingstone (Victoria Falls) in Zambia.

In my endevour to change my tyres, I manage to pop my previously dormant umbilical hernia, causing a large protrusion of my navel. At first I thought the pain was just another bout of diarrhea, but soon realise it's a little bit more serious than that.

Get hold of Dr Helen, who tries to arrange for me to see a Medical Specialist at a Private Hospital. Unfortunately it's a Saturday afternoon, and not a Specialist is to be found anywhere in Lilongwe (TIA). She decides to manipulate it back into place and voila, she is sucessful! After much telephonic consultation, she decides that she is better than any doctor in a Public Hospital, and takes the decision not to get futher medical help, a decision which proves to be the correct one.

I am then placed under Doctor's Orders - I am to monitor the hernia and to stop cycling immediately if it happens again, if it does, I have to seek medical help in Lusaka (Zambia).

Early evening, Judith and I take a Tuk-Tuk with Andje to an Auto Bank to draw money and to collect some Korean Takeaways for supper. It pours with rain, and we have an interesting time navigating the dark streets of Lilongwe by Tuk-Tuk.

Tomorrow we cross out of Malawi and into Zambia, the land of my birth! We have quite a tough five day section ahead of us, before we reach Lusaka for our next rest day.

Cheers,
Mike T

Our A-Frame accommodation at Mabuya

The sign about sums up the conditions we experienced at the Backpackers

Mabuya Backpackers

One of the cut in one of my slick tyres

The next Stage 55 - Lilongwe to Chipata (in Zambia)

The upcoming Section from Lilongwe to Lusaka

Kasungu to Lilongwe (130km)

MALAWI

Day 78 - Mar 31 - Stage 54

Friday: We depart Kasungu with the greatest of intentions to cycle the full distance to Lilongwe, but a mean headwind disrupts Judith's plans, while both a mechanical (a slit tyre) and a physical (gout in my right knee again) intervenes for me - forcing us both to only cycle the 76km to lunch and then to take the truck to Mabuya Backpackers Camp in Lilongwe.

Carlsberg Beer on the move

As we approach Lilongwe in the morning, the traffic increases and becomes more aggressive, Judith is forced off the road at one stage by a big truck, while on another occasion I nearly get knocked over by another one!

The number of Police/Traffic Police roadblocks increases (at one stage I count three roadblocks within a 5km stretch of road). Stopping traffic in order to collect "payments" in lieu of being paid a monthly salary, seems to be prevalent in this part of Malawi.

We have a Coke Stop, Liz takes the opportunity to buy some french fries for us all, this just contributes to my ever developing Fish Bowl Syndrome - described yesterday - which seems to be getting worse!

Judith rides the last 20km to lunch with Leon the Sweep rider, the day's headwind forcing her to ride at a very slow pace. But we are not alone, a further 6 riders climb into the Lunch Truck with us.

After packing up at lunch, it's a free for all by the locals when we leave them the uneaten left over food, but it's a behavior I have come to expect from the Malawians. To be quite honest, I think it's just a true reflection of the attitude of their current politicians.

Arrive at Camp to find Mark Heim has rejoined the Tour, he left us after breaking his wrist on the last day of riding in the Sudan, it's good to see him back.

We say goodbye to Anthony Butler, Charles's Dad who leaves us to go back to work, it was great meeting up with him and we hope to see him either in Prince Albert or at his house in Cape St Francis in South Africa in the foreseeable future.

Cheers,
Mike T

Leaving Kasungu on the way to Lilongwe

Feeling major Fish Bowl Syndrome vibes at the Coke Stop

Fetching our Daily & Permanent Bags at Mabuya Backpackers' Lodge

Riders enjoying a cold beer after a tricky ride into Lilongwe

Nelson (on the left) talking to his friend Mark who rejoined us in Lilongwe after his fall in Sudan

Luviri School to Kasungu (107km - only 500m of climbing, but 990m of descent)

MALAWI

Day 77 - Mar 30 - Stage 53

Thursday: After two days of either climbing on the Lunch Truck after lunch or on it before lunch, we get our mojo back and cycle the whole distance without any major issues. So we don't get picked up and have to ride with the Sweep Rider either. A good days riding.

Michael assisting Judith with her puncture and supplying some spectator value

We get to lunch at the 61km mark relatively early, I sit on the opposite side of the truck, and eat my lunch, where it's quiet and there are no spectators. The other riders think I am being anti-social, but I am starting to suffer from FBS (Fish Bowl Syndrome). Just can't handle eating my lunch with so many local adults and children staring at me!

No Coke Stop in the morning, but we have two stops in the afternoon. Judith gets a puncture, so I replace her tube and fix her flat tyre (not without offering some spectator value).

Arrive in Kasungu Camp only to find all the rooms are taken, so we pitch the tent. Fortunately we have pre-booked via Andje for tomorrow's rest day in Lilongwe, where we will be spending two nights.

The unofficial Awards for the past section are presented. Marie gets the Toss the Dummy Award, Rob gets the Yellow Jersey (but he doesn't accept it?) and Bernd gets the Over Achievers Award, for running 15km up the Mountain on the Rest Day at Chitimba Beach to Livingstonia, getting caught in the rain and having to overnight there, then running back to Camp the next day!!

Tomorrow is the last day of our four day section, then we will have our next rest day in Lilongwe, where some of the Sectional riders will leave us, and others will join us.

Cheers,
Mike T

Coke Stop No. 1

There are many different varieties of beans for sale along the roadside

Coke Stop No. 2

One proud tent erector exordinair !

Paul assisted by Judith, fund-raising at the Unofficial Awards Ceremony

Marie received her Dummy (Pacifier) Award from the previous winner Catherine

Bernd received the Over Achievers Award

Andje was the surprise Lady Stage Winner

All the TDA Staff pose for a group photo

Tomorrow, Stage 54 - Kasungu to Lilongwe

Mzuzu to Luviri School (124km + 1'890m of climbing)

MALAWI

Day 76 - Mar 29 - Stage 52

Wednesday: Woke up still suffering from gout (same as yesterday) in my right knee, so we decided since the majority of the climbing was in the first part of the day, to take the Lunch Truck in the morning to the lunch position, and then to ride from there, to the next Camp at Luviri School (Soccer Field).

This proved to be a very prudent decision as it was raining when we left Mzuzu and the riders had to face a strong headwind, which when combined with the wind-chill-factor, brought the temperature down to about 12-degrees and/or lower. This caused quite a few of the riders to abandon, some suffering from hypothermia, before even reaching the lunch position.

When we, and a few others who are 'recovering', arrived on the Truck at the lunch position, 70km from the start, I helped the TDA guys to erect the tarpaulin and set up the tables, while Judith assisted with the preparation of the salads.

However we soon realized that the Truck had stopped in an area where there was the possibility of finding some Manganese Pseudo-morph Pyrite Crystals (AKA "black diamonds") ! So we started examining the ground and we were pleasantly rewarded by finding some crystals, which we couldn't actually identify... so we will have to get them identified properly when back in South Africa. Of course, due to our rock-hounding diversion, we left the lunch position later than planned.

We cycled the remaining 54km to Camp, but started in heavy mist and rain, which fortunately (as the ride progressed) cleared somewhat with the viability getting better.

We arrived at Camp after only being overtaken by three of the racing snakes, but on arrival it was already looking like a tent town, since a lot of riders had abandoned and had been picked up by the Main Truck and Tallis's bakkie (his 4x4 pick-up).

A few of us took a walk to the local market, but the locals were not that friendly, especially since we tried to take some photographs (In fact they were quite pissed off that we took photos!). So I soon left and walked back to Camp, what is it with the Malawians?

Leo the Bike Mechanic fixed my rear rim, the rear cones needed tightening & bearing's leaned + greased. Also, some of the spokes needed to be realigned and tightened. My heavy frame (my body that is, not the bike frame itself) and the many rumble strips encountered on the Malawian roads, are just not compatible with smooth riding.

It was an evening without beers, as I was trying to cure my bout of gout (not that it was alcohol induced?). The staff gave us a very lekker (great) braai - then it was off to bed early.

It rained heavily during the night, but our tent erection skills and rain-proofing strategies are finally paying off, and we tend to keep relatively dry. Long may that last.

Cheers,
Mike T