Elephant Camp to Nata Lodge (143km)

Botswana

Day 94 - Apr 16 - Stage 65

Easter Sunday: Left the Elephant Camp with Judith, but then later took off with Philip when he came past. Rode up to lunch at 75km, and we saw no wildlife at all, Judith on the other hand, accompanied by Liz, managed to get up close and personal with a large Elephant!

Well, I only stopped so that I could read the sign!!

Nata Town was our first Coke Stop at 134km into the ride (coke stops in Botswana are very few and far between).  Arrived at Nata Lodge and was exhausted, had either a side wind or head wind the whole day long, it was a difficult day for me.

Booked in at Nata Lodge Chalet, It's located very close to the Makgadikgati Salt Pans and is quite posh indeed. Off to the Bar for a well-earned beer and swim in the pool, the Lodge has definitely changed a lot since I was last here quite a few years ago and was a good way to spend Easter.

After Briefing and supper, Judith and I spent some quality time at the Bar using their WiFi to catch up on the social network scene. 

Tomorrow will be another tough day for me, Tallis the Tour Leader tells us there are parts of the road which are flooded, so the ride should prove quite interesting, also it's a long 185 km distance!!


Cheers,
Mike T

Judith & Liz getting close and personal with the Elephant

"Liz look, I think I see an Elephant!" Just moments before.

Foot and Mouth Control Gate after lunch

Briefing Board - Nata to Bush Camp (tomorrow's ride...)

Judith & Liz's Elephant crossing the road

Today we reached the 8000 km mark!

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Mbeya to Karonga (162km with 1'130m ascent & 2'360m descent)

Tanzania & Malawi

Day 71 - March 24- Stage 49

Monday: Today we left the rolling hills of Southern  Tanzania and swooped down once again into the Great Rift Valley and crossed another Border, from Tanzania into Malawi. The contrast between the two countries was immediately apparent.

On the Malawian side and only 635 km to Lilongwe Capital of Malawi

It was not an easy day, after 12km we were supposed to turn right for the Malawi Border. At this point, I was involved in an altercation with a minibus-taxi, the driver of which had deliberately tried to run me off the road at the busy intersection. I was distracted just long enough to miss the turn off, rode for an extra kilometer before I realized my mistake, had to ride another kilometer back to the turn off!


At a distance of 16km, we encountered a  major climb out of the Mbeya area into the surrounding mountains, I made it up the climb,  but not before stopping on numerous occasions to catch my breath! 

Lunch was at the 69km mark, Judith had taken the Lunch Truck in the morning and her and Marie had cycled from the lunch position to the Border Post and then on to Camp. So I had a quick lunch and pushed on to the Border which was still 45km away.

Close to the Border, I had my last Coke Stop in Tanzania with a few of the other riders, then we cycled to the Tanzanian Border Post.


There were no issues at the Tanzanian Border Post, but on the Malawian side, true to form, those riders who needed visas to get into Malawi were delayed, while the South African Citizens went straight through without any hassles.

Liz and I teamed up and left most of the other TDA riders just hanging around waiting for things to happen. However as soon as we were cycling on the Malawian road, cries from the locals went from, "Jambo, Jambo" (Good morning, good morning) by the Tanzanians, to "Give me money" or an even better cry of "Give me MY money" by the Malawians, especially the kids.

Rode for at least 20km with a local cyclist called Samson, and we had a long conversation, as we discussed the political situation in Malawi. We both came to the conclusion that economically, things would never get better in Malawi, not unless there was a major intervention by Government,  which was never going to happen.

Malawi has so much going for it as a tourist destination, especially since 21% of it is taken up by Lake Malawi. But unlike the East African countries of Kenya, Uganda, Rwanda and Tanzania, the Governments of which aggressively market their tourist potential, the Malawi Government is quite happy to continue with the status quo.


While cycling with Samson,

I came across a new TDA Sectional Rider who was giving money to some kids (handing out US$ one dollar bills). With visitors having an attitude like that, how are the Malawians ever going to get out of their "Begging Mode".  I was not impressed and tossed my toys out of the cot at him.

The overnight camp at Safari Lodge Annex on Lake Malawi has definitely seen better days, but we took a room to keep out of the rain.

Arrived at the finish and first reported in, then cycled into Karonga Town with Andje to draw local Malawian currency (Kwatcha) at a Standard Bank ATM.

Unfortunately we received some bad news, Joyce, the Mother of Judith's Sister-in-law Mandy, had passed away. We used the Satellite phone and phoned Mandy to give her our condolences. It is at times like this, that you feel quite isolated from one's family. 


Only a relatively short 90km ride tomorrow, then two days rest on the shores of Lake Malawi at Chitimba Beach. Off to sleep after enjoying a few green bottles of Malawi Carlsberg (locally known as "Malawi Greenies"). 

Cheers,
Mike T


PS: We were woken up in the night by some heavy rain, and hoped it would subside by the morning. Not long till we found out.

Climbing into the rolling hills of the East African Rift Valley

Mbeya Town as we cycle out towards Malawi

Locals washing carrots in the stream prior to transporting them to Market

Leaving the Metropolis of Mbeya as seen from the surrounding hills

Phillip at the Lunch Truck stop before reaching the Tanzanian/Malawi Border

Passed some heavy traffic on the way to the Border

Andje, Phillip and Tom at the last Coke Stop in Tanzania at the Junction Lodge

Junction Lodge

Land Rover - Opening up Africa for the others to follow :P

Liz passing into Malawi after the Border Post

Camp at Safari Lodge Annex - Max discussing issues with the Riders

Tonight's Briefing Karonga to Chitimba Beach.
We're on dishes duty!

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Makongolosi to Mbeya (110 km, 2150 m of climbing)

Tanzania

Day 69 - March 22 - Stage 48

Wednesday: It's the last day of our Seven Day Section, and the last day on dirt roads for a long time. Next dirt road section is most probably in Namibia,  so the non-mountain-bikers among us (the majority of the riders) are ecstatic!

Today's dirt road section was extremely rocky and in some instances quite dangerous especially the steep downhills, but we managed it quite well without any major mishaps.

We passed quite a few areas where Artisinal miners were actively mining for gold. You could also clearly hear the sound of crushers and mills working deep into the bush.
There were also quite a few miners who were walking around using metal detectors, looking for gold. The Tanzanian Artisinal Miners are definitely a more tech savvy breed of miner's.
We even managed to get one of the miners to demonstrate the use of his metal detector to Judith, as well as showing us a gold nugget he had recently found with the detector


Just before we reached the Town of Chunya, the dirt road became a tar road, and most of the riders became relatively happy, with a few of them even going as far as kissing the tar road!


The Town of Chunya was a hive of economic activity, there were many workshops in action,  where the manufacture or refurbishment of steel mills used for crushing ore, was in progress. I had previously read, that active gold mining had started in the Chunya Area from as far back as 1920. Shanta Gold is also very active in the immediate Area with both prospecting and mining.

An indication of the rock conditions we encountered today

Riding along a good stretch of dirt road...

Gold nugget found by Miner using a metal detector

The Miner giving Judith a demonstration in metal detecting

Back on the tar & back into the land of man-made speed humps
(AKA Sleeping Policemen)

We cycled to the Lunch Truck, where both Judith and I climbed in and took a lift to Mbeya, missing a major ascent up into the mountain and descent down into Mbeya.

The Camp was at the Mbeya Hotel, where I met up with a bunch of South African expats, who over a few rum & cokes, confirmed that there was plenty of active gold mining taking place in the Chunya Area and that even the Chinese were becoming involved (Sunshine Mining Company).


On a different note, we were also pleasantly surprised to meet up with Ben, a solo cyclist from England who is riding from Cape Town to the UK. We had previously seen him in December last year, when he stayed with us at our home in Prince Albert, South Africa.

Rest day tomorrow!


Cheers,
Mike T

Welcome to Mbeya

Tuk Tuk's in Chunya

Workshop building/refurbishing steel crushers and mill's

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Gieta to Mwanza (126km with 1367m of ascent)

Tour d'Afrique 

Day 57 - Mar 10 - Stage 40 (Tanzania)

Friday: After a very muddy ending to yesterday's ride and Judith using her initiative to book us in and our subsequent move to a nearby Hotel, we woke up relatively early in our cosy hotel room.

A group of us were picked up at the Hotel by one of the School Teachers. He needed to do two trips to get us & all of our bags back to the Muddy Camp for breakfast. 

Some of the other  riders, who were at a more up-market Hotel (especially those who had been ill) slept late and decided to take a taxi to Mwanza, rather than cycling there.

Breakfast at Muddy Camp

Sunrise over the Boys School before the day's ride

Unfortunately a very repetitive sight in Africa.
Young children looking after baby siblings 

Judith was still recovering from her upset stomach, so under Doctor's orders, she rode in the Party Bus to Mwanza.

I started with Liz, but then rode away from her as she was determined to keep at a steady pace which was just a little slow for me (I should have remembered the story about the rabbit and the tortoise!).  I got to lunch at the 70km mark, and was not feeling well (nauseous) so decided to take the lunch truck. Liz soldiered on and rode with Dr Helen the Sweep rider all the way to Mwanza 

Before we reached Mwanza, we arrived at the southern shore of Lake Victoria, then took a 30 minute ferry ride across the Lake to negate an extremely long ride around the edge of the Lake through Kampala.

We arrived at a very picturesque Camp (Tunza Resort Limited) with a white sandy beach on the edge of the Lake. Here we washed the mud off our bikes in the Lake, before having a few slow beers on the patio before Rider Briefing and Supper. Chef Errol excelled himself and produced ice cream for dessert!

Early to bed accompanied by the sound of the  gentle crashing of waves on the "beach'". It was one of the best camping spots we have had, and a big pity that we didn't have a rest day at Mwanza.

Cheers,

Mike T

Rock formations along the road to Mwanza

View of the shore from the Ferry on Lake Victoria

A passing Ferry on Lake Victoria

Ferry docking on the Mwanza side of the Lake

Liz and Doctor Helen leaving the Ferry

Arriving at Tunza Resort in Mwanza

Welcome to Mwanza

Judith did a good job putting up the tent next to the beach

Warning notice for the Guests

Riders enjoying some rest and recuperation at the Bar

"Two Bottle Peter" enjoying his first Savanna's ever!

Judith washing her bike in Lake Victoria

Both Marie & Bike as clean as could be

Riders enjoying some quality time on the beach

Sunset over Lake Victoria

Kapenta fishing boats (the lights) on Lake Victoria in the moonlight

Tomorrow's Ride on the Briefing Board - Mwanza to Speke Bay

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Day 53 - Stage 36 - Kigali to Kayonza (75 km)

Sunday, 5 March:  The start of the next Section, which will see us cycling a total of 703km with 7'532m of accent and & 7'687m of descent, it's not going to be an easy Section!

After a two day rest period, we left the City of Kigali, Africa's cleanest and neatest City. All the riders who had taken time off to see the Mountain Gorillas were all in agreement, that it was one of the greatest highlights of their tour so far.

We started on a mean cobblestoned hill, I was the first to leave, which allowed me to walk up the hill, then to wait for Judith to catch me up, discretion is the better part of valor!

We cycled through the morning rush hour traffic, fortunately we were trying to get out of the City while most people were trying to get in. To their credit, all of the robots (traffic lights) worked, and major intersections were manned by Traffic Policemen, a real pleasure for a change. 

The day's ride consisted mainly of long down hills and long corresponding uphills, because it was a relatively short distance, lunch was at the end of the ride, in Camp.

Generally the locals were friendly, and shouted greetings or encouragement to us at regular intervals. We cycled a lot of the way with Liz,  who ensured we had two coke stops in quick succession, I wonder if a person can overdose on cola?

Judith also managed to do some retail therapy along the way, and bought herself a new pair of slip slops, which Liz graciously carried for her in her backpack.

During the ride, my new rear wheel behaved itself, and it seems as if my first major mechanical  failure has finally been sorted out.

 Riding the cobblestone road

Local Rwandan cyclist

Kyle not feeling well and waiting for pick-up assistance

Coke Stop no. 1

Coke Stop no. 2

Statues in one of the Villages en route

Church of Marie Reine De La Paix
(Built by the Belgian Colonialists)

Judith getting some retail therapy en route

We camped at the Woman's Opportunity Center, which specializes in providing skills training to local woman. This included skills such as brick making, sewing, beading, weaving and pottery in order to generate income. While basic English lessons and business skills are also provided.

It looked like it was going to rain, so we pitched the tent inside one of the classrooms, quite a mean feat, since the tent only just fitted, but at least we would sleep dry in the event of rain. 

There was a Coffee Shop on the premises  and it was well frequented by the riders, especially since they offered real cappuccinos. While the Gift shop alongside the Coffee Shop did some brisk sales, the multi-coloured long pants on offer, seemed to be a big crowd-pleaser.

Charles went into Kayonza Town and brought me back two Rwandan beers I hadn't tasted yet, to ensure I stayed on course for EFDB (Every Flippin Different Beer)

Tomorrow we cycle to the Rwanda/Tanzania Border, and enter our next African Country.

Cheers,

Mike T

Welcome to Kayonza

Women's Opportunity Centre (WOC)

The WOC Classrooms

All the riders who camped pitched their tents in the Centre's grounds...

...except the Treloar's who camped inside the classroom!

The multi-colored long pants proved very popular with a number of riders

Gatanu Beer - One of those which Charles so kindly bought for me in Town

Riders' Briefing with an attentive audience

Briefing Board. Tomorrow's ride... Stage 37

Members of Team Carbo-Load getting in some practice 

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