Day 24 - Stage 20 - Rufaa to Senna (157 km)

Local cyclist spotted at the Lunch Stop

Sunday: Some days are relatively short, but on other  days, you have quality  time on your bike , today was one of those days. A long day spent in the saddle, peddling south towards our destination.

Judith and I started relatively early after breakfast, and soon got into our normal rhythm. Unfortunately our ride was soon spoilt by the sight of litter in the desert.

Just like plastic pollution in the oceans, plastic pollution in the desert has become a constant reminder of man's ability to destroy his pristine environment.

Charles one of the racing snakes, had a major mechanical today, and Julian dropped off and went back to assist him, while Liz also helped him to get going again. 

Lunch today was at the at 72 km mark, we had lunch and we both continued, we had our first coke stop (unofficial) at 90 km when a local Sudanese bought Gurpaul, Judith and I a coke as we sheltered from the sun under a thorn tree, we were soon joined by Trixie.

At 107 km the lunch truck caught up with us,  Judith loaded her bike and climbed into the lunch truck and went with Wynand to fill the truck up with fresh water at one of the Villages. I stayed on my bike and continued.

Coke stop at 110 km, but I gave it a miss , couldn't find any other rider frequenting the stop. Not a good decision, at approx 120 km at some arbitrary village, I had to stop and ask a local lad who was riding next to me on his bike, if he could find me some coke, gave him some money and he sped off, to return approx 15 min later with a cold coke.

Of course, by the time he returned, I had a huge audience of villagers, who in their broken English, wanted to know, where I came from, where I was going, and why was I doing it on a bicycle?

Stopped at coke stop at 129 km and joined Bridgett, Anmei and Gurpaul, who were already the centre of attraction when I got there. Spent about a half hour with them before they left. I decided to wait for Liz (who had helped Charles with his mechanical) and Sweep rider Dr Helen. 

Waited about an hour, they didn't arrive, then  wrongly  decided they had already passed through the coke stop and I had missed them. Took off and tried to catch them, at about 10km from the finish, they caught up to me (they had been behind me all the time) but not before I had ridden myself to a standstill, trying to catch them.

By the time we reached camp, my "rings were shot, and my gasket was blown" I was a very tired cyclist, it had been a long day in the sun, with the maximum temperature at about 40 degrees. (!!)

"Only mad dogs and Englishmen go out into the midday sun!" this certainly applied today, there were many stops made under a shady thorn tree just to recover my composure.

Crossed over the Blue Nile Bridge and arrived at camp, which was under the trees right next to the Blue River. Arrived at 5.45pm just in time for 6pm briefing, then dinner.

Still had to change our slicks to MTB tires, thanks go to Muzz, who changed and fitted Judith's MTB tires and assisted me (I was slightly brain-dead after a long day in the saddle) 

We had done approx. 2'575 km each on our slicks, Judith didn't puncture once, with only one of my tubes needing replacement, due to a tear at the valve position. The Specialized Infinity tires that my son Ken had sourced for us, have been truly amazing, thanks Ken.

Lets hope we have just as good service/luck from our Maxxis Crossmark MTB Tyres, the next four days we are on dirt/gravel roads, but only time will tell.

Another early night, after a very long day out in the Sudanese sun.

Cheers,

Mike T

Andrew enjoying his breakfast peanut butter sandwich and contemplating this morning's ride.

Sunrise over a Sudanese Metal Foundry

Plastic pollution in the Sudanese Desert

A great place to stop for the morning's first comfort break

Close up of one of  the murals 

Sometimes its easier riding off the tar road than on it

Taking shelter under a tree at our unofficial coke stop

The "Vicious Gnome" overheated and not a happy camper !!

Waiting for Helen & Liz and taking in the sights and sounds (local vendors)

Sights and sounds from my vantage position (petrol station)

More sights and sounds (across the road)

Its a long and lonely road trying to catch up with Liz & Helen

Today we change our tires from slicks to Mountainbike tires

Chilling just before Riders' Briefing

Welcome to Wooded Camp

Briefing board with tomorrows ride - Our first dirt road adventure


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Day 23 - Stage 19 - Khartoum to Rufaa (148 km)

Saturday: At the Briefing Meeting the evening before the next days ride, a road might be described as being tarred, but that doesn't mean its easy to ride on.

We formed up after breakfast, and we rode in a convoy, but this time without so much fanfare, until we were approximately 12 km out of Khartoum, then it was every rider to their own.

The tar road to Fafaa, was very uneven, potholed, had an eroded shoulder and they used a large aggregate (very uneven to ride on) during its construction

Stopped at 57 km for our regular tea & coffee break accompanied by Max the Sweep Rider.

Judith battled on to lunch at the 78 km mark, decided she was going too slow, climbed into the lunch truck, while I completed the remaining 70 km with Liz Morris.

Joined the Tatoo Club today, at the 113 km mark, right at the Coke Stop, I moved off the tar onto the gravel shoulder for a fast approaching truck coming from the rear. As the truck passed, I tried to climb up from the gravel shoulder onto the tar, but the sidewash from the truck forced me down, resulting in me crashing on the tar road.

I only suffered minor tar burns to my left elbow and left leg, as well as bruised palm's to both hands and a bruised hip. But the biggest damage was to "My Pride" I managed to fall right in front of the riders and locals frequenting the Coke Stop, and it must of looked quite spectacular.

Fortunately Liz who is  a Wound Specialist and Bridgette who is a Doctor, were on hand to dress my wounds, and my thanks goes out to the two of them,  unfortunately they could do nothing for my pride!

On arrival back at Camp I consulted with Dr Helen our Tour Doctor, who cleaned my wounds and re-dressed them for me.

Attended Riders Briefing Meeting, had a delicious chicken curry for dinner, then early to bed at 8pm.

Another stage down and a 148 km distance done, only five more days to cycle before we reach the Ethiopian Border.

Cheers,

Mike T

Riders Convoy forming up in the morning

Liz (RSA) all ready to go

End of the Convoy riding from here we are on our own

Passed many trucks bringing wood into Khartoum - Deforestation very evident in Sudan 

Today's first Tea/Coffee Stop

The Coke Stop where I managed to impress both riders and  locals with my spectacular fall-down abilities.

Rode with Brad (Sweep Rider) and Liz after lunch

Our tent pitched at this evenings camping site.

Dinner time is quality time

Today was a tough day for some of us

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No Comms Until We Reach Ethiopia - All fine.

No/very little communication + poor signal available on this stretch of  tour.
Should have comms again when we reach Ethiopian border.
Will update blog after.

All fine - have satellite phone for any emergencies.
Regards to all, Mike T.

- sent via text message


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Day 22 - Rest Day - Breakfast Buffet's, Ice-Cream & Photobombing

"And then, Michael had finally and suddenly arrived in Soda Heaven..."

Friday: Rest Day in Khartoum 

Surprise surprise, we both managed to sleep relatively late this morning, did the necessary,  then went to the Hotel Restaurant for a mother of a breakfast buffet. 

There is a Barber shop in the Hotel, so I  decided to have a Number 0 haircut (shaved my head) as I am tired of trying to keep the sand out from my flowing locks. Yussaf the Barber took his time, and as a result  I got my money's worth.

We walked to the Mall with Hanne, met some of the other riders and proceeded to have milk shakes and Ice-cream, and did some shopping for essentials at the Supermarket. Then tea/coffee at a Coffee Shop, followed by more ice-cream to eat while we walked back to Camp/Hotel.

On the way back to the Hotel, we were stopped by a local gentleman who insisted we joined him at his shop for some watermelon. So we sat down and had a pleasant time discussing current affairs with him. His English was good, since he had spent some time working for an American Company. It's the small things like this, that make this trip an eye-opener. 

After traveling through Egypt & Sudan, the things we take for granted back in SA  (such as visiting the Mall) suddenly take on an Alice in Wonderland experience. Suddenly there is ice-cream, milk shakes and cappuccino's in Khartoum! It feels like I am a child and I just walked into a toy shop!!

Bernd Beigl has rejoined us again, he crashed on one of the early stages, was hospitalized and underwent surgery to his face in Egypt, before flying back to Germany for reconstructive dental work. He flew back to Khartoum, and it is great to have him back with us.

At 5.30 pm we all met up and went off in taxis to the private house of Ed, who is at the Canadian Consulate in Khartoum, where he and a bunch of his selected guests, hosted the full TDA Team (Riders & Management) for dinner. 

It was a grand affair, we were entertained by good music and dancing by a group of local Sudanese musicians and dancers. While dinner (starters, main course, and pudding) was out of this world, and appreciated by all concerned. 

Back to the Hotel to pack our permanent & daily bags, we also took out our MTB tires from our permanent bags, we will be exchanging our slick tires for knobbly tires sometime during this coming leg (will be riding on dirt/gravel roads soon). 


It's been a great rest day for the both of us.

Cheers,

Mike T

Walking with Hanne to the Mall

Deserted streets of Khartoum- At prayer time

Khartoum Bank architecture 

Arriving at the Local Mall

Decision time - Milkshakes, Ice Cream or Shopping?

Rob at one of the Chicken Franchise's

Ice Cream Heaven 

Decisions, decisions and more decisions! 

Michael giving Kyle a little taste of his Ice Cream

Chicken wings available in the Supermarket

The Al Waha Mall Office Block

Examples of downtown Khartoum Offices

Another downtown Khartoum Office building

Having watermelon with a local Sudanese gentleman, en route back to the Hotel

Tomorrow's Stage 19

The next leg of the tour: from Khartoum to the Ethiopian Border

Bernd Beigl (Germany) has rejoined us after his unfortunate crash in Egypt.

Muzz, Gurpaul & Julian dressed in local garb for tonight's dinner, being photo bombed by yours truly.

The coffee making process at dinner

Michael & Judith at Ed's dinner party

Helping ourselves to main course

Local Musicians and Dancers at the dinner party

Muzz teaching the local Sudanese Dancer some new moves

Philip loves making new friends where ever he goes

I think Charles enjoys my new haircut

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Hello from Judith - Day 22, Khartoum

Day 21 - Sunrise Breakfast!

Friday: Hello everyone,

I am also enjoying Michael's blog! Our trip thus far has been interesting to say the least, but I'm looking forward to the change in climate and desert-scapes as we progress further South.

I am a big fan of the Tailwind and don't mind the odd gentle Crosswind, although the gusting ones that throw sand in your face and give you some free exfoliation are not popular!  

Head butting a Headwind is a real problem for me too, so the Irish wish of "may the wind always be at your back" has a very special place in my heart right now!  

Michael has the patience of a saint - riding mostly at my pace - which I hope will continue to improve!

Laundry mostly happens on rest days. Where there are laundry services available by local ladies or hotels, we use them!  Socks, buffs, hankies, bandannas and underwear are washed in the shower when and where possible.

Our daily meals have been fairly healthy and plentiful (whew, but some of the 20 - 30 something age group can put away several plates at a time! But then they are racing and covering the distances in half my time!).

We are touring with a great crew and an amazing and interesting bunch of cyclists - so there is always someone chat to you and lots of group dynamics to observe. 

And so our adventure continues... we hope everyone in RSA & DRC keeps well and continues to stay in touch and in good health.

- Judith

Day 21- Stage 18 - Police Convoys, Chaos, and Khartoum

Sunrise & early morning bike-gathering...

Desert Camp to Khartoum (88 km)

Thursday: The day's riding-orders were to cycle to lunch at the 67km mark, have lunch and then at 11 am, form up into a convoy and ride into Khartoum. We thought it was going to be an easy ride, but weary legs and a crosswind decided otherwise.


We were the first to leave camp, but were soon overtaken by all the other riders. Judith was struggling at the back, and we decided I would cycle on at my pace and she would cycle with Sweep Rider Helen. 

If it was going to result in her arriving late for the lunch time rendezvous, then Tallis would go back and pick up Judith and Helen in the Land Cruiser and drive them to lunch. 

True to form; 5km from the lunch truck rendezvous, the Sudanese Police stopped all the riders until we could form a convoy (they were so keen they just couldn't wait until the lunch truck) much to the agitation of the riders.



After a lengthy wait,  they decided we could cycle on to lunch, so with much fanfare we rode to the lunch truck . At this stage Judith and Helen were still nowhere to be seen...


Lunch was taken on the outskirts of Khartoum in an area covered by litter, and we were surrounded by Police and Traffic Officials, it was organised chaos, Sudanese style.

To my astonishment and admiration, Judith arrived accompanied by Helen, she had cycled all the way and it wasn't necessary for Tallis to fetch them after all.


After lunch, we formed up into our designated positions, slower riders in the front, behind the Land Cruiser. So the Treloar's had the distinction of leading the convoy of TDA riders into the city center of Khartoum. Thanks go to "Super Muzz Murray" who pushed Judith (who was totally exhausted by this stage) on numerous occasions, as well as Bridgette, who shouted encouragement,  ensuring she stayed in front behind the Cruiser.  

Thanks also go out to the Sudanese Police and Traffic Police who with sirens blaring, ensured we reached the Hotel Camping Grounds in one piece, since the traffic in Khartoum was horrendous. Notwithstanding that our TDA convoy had the distinction of backing up the traffic for kilometers in all directions! 


Judith and I booked into the Grand Hotel Villa, after cycling the equivalent of over four Cape Argus Cycle Tours, and after 'enjoying' three Desert Camps we were determined to spoil ourselves. 

We unpacked our bags and accompanied by Niklas, we went off to the Hotel Restaurant, where we killed the salad's and pudding's from their late afternoon buffet.

Back in our room, Judith had a late afternoon snooze, while I caught up with social media at the Pool Area. Then after taking a shower, it was early to bed.

Tomorrow we hope to just relax and take in some sight-seeing.

Cheers,
Mike T

Lunch on the outskirts of Khartoum 

Waiting for the Police Convoy to form

Welcome to Khartoum...

In the Hotel Restaurant killing the salads and puddings at the late lunch buffet 

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