The Treloar Herald

Day 38 - Stage26 - Lake Naivasha to Londiane (146 km)

Saturday: This was the longest day I have had on my bike so far on the Tour. The most climbing I have done since Cairo. And to say it was a tough day, would be an understatement.

The first 15 km were the same as the last 15 km from yesterday's ride, I was not a happy camper, just don't like going backwards before being allowed to go forwards, and to cap it all off, it started to rain. Once back on the main road we donned our jackets and proceeded to cycle to Londiane.

Cycled past Lake Elementaita, a soda lake (alkaline lake) in the Great Rift Valley and managed to see some zebras along the road.

We had two Coke Stops before the Lunch Truck, it was tough going and Judith was pulling big amps. After lunch she decided to climb into the Truck - she was just going too slow - with another 71 km to go, would never have made it before the sunset cut off.

Cycled through the town of Nakuru, which was quite hectic, as the traffic was all over the place, had my third Coke Stop in town. Outside of the town, came upon a major accident where a Police vehicle had crashed head-on into the side of a large truck, causing a major traffic jam and great spectator value.

Then the hills started, and I began getting slower as I attempted to finish the distance. Got to the town of Salagga and met up with Goupaul at coke stop number 4, we spent approximately 1 hour waiting for Brad the Sweep Rider to catch up with us, but he didn't materialize (he was busy looking for a perceived lost rider). While waiting, Goupaul spent his time trying to teach some of the local ladies to cycle.

We left Salagga, and then the road became much steeper, at the one major hill which was 5km in length, I must have walked 2km out of the 5km. I was just so knackered - no power left in the legs. To make it worse, when pedaling up the hills, the school kids kept on running next to me, forcing me to keep up a fast pace. Then it started raining again and I became quite water-logged.

Brad finally caught up to me, and we soon stopped for my 5th coke stop, which was at the smallest shop I had ever stopped at.

We finally hit the summit of the last hill of the day and promptly began our last descent into camp, but not before one of the locals shouted, "Bwana" (which is more a Zambian term for Mr. than the Kenyan one of "Muzungu" meaning White Man). I replied, "Yes" and he said, "Bwana, you are late!!". Never a truer word had been said in jest!

And so, I cycled down the big decent into the Kenyan Bush Camp, where on arrival, a relieved Judith greeted me with a cold beer.

I had been out on the road for nearly 12 hours, definitely a long long day for me, but at least I had completed the 146 km.

Cheers,
Mike T

Back in the Land of Tusker.

Back at the Main Road we donned our rain jackets.

Coke Stop No. 1 - Judith indicating what she wanted to drink.

Hotel Horns sounds quite interesting.

Traffic associated with the major vehicle pileup outside Nakuru.

Precious School for Precious Girls?

Coke Stop No. 4 - Spent nearly an hour there waiting for Brad.

Goupaul teaching one of the local ladies to cycle.

Lunch Truck in an isolated position on today's ride.

The smallest Coke Stop yet

Arriving at tonight's Bush Camp

Day 37- Stage 25 - Nairobi to Lake Naivasha (110 km)

Saturday: After 8 non-cycling days, it was great to get back on the bike again. I was hoping the legs had not forgotten their memory, and I was not disappointed, they hadn't. However my bum had completely lost its memory, and it was as sore as it was on Stage 1!!

Packing up camp at Wildebeest Eco Lodge was a serious challenge, it had rained during the night and the tent was wet, but we persevered and packed it up into my Day Bag, another first for us.

After an early breakfast, we left Nairobi and headed west, having to contend with the early morning Nairobi traffic, which in comparison to the traffic we were to contend with later in the day (as we rode down the escarpment into the Rift Valley) was relatively quite tame.

Most of the days ride was on tar, with one section on dirt, and it included a portion where road works were in progress. Always good to see how the Chinese are busy tarring Africa.

It was on this section that Liz had a problem with one of the cranks on her bike, fortunately she managed to find a local bike shop, just off the road, and the bike mechanic could make some temporary repairs for her, for a few "bob" (one "bob" equalls one Kenyan Shilling)

Reached the Pass down into the Rift Valley at around about the 50Km, and we were greeted by a stunning vista of the East African Rift Valley, with the crater of Mount Longonot clearly visible in the far distance.

We stopped at a number of the view points positioned down the Pass and I even managed to beat Judith at her own game, and did some retail therapy of my own, buying an arm bracelet and a Masai blanket for myself.

Unfortunately this very fast and scenic decent was marred by heavy traffic, consisting mainly of heavy trucks and military trucks (on some or other maneuvers). Who seemed determined to try and run us (slower riders) off the road, as if it was a form of some national sport or other recreational pursuit.

Fortunately no riders were injured during the decent, but there were some very close and hair-raising encounters between riders, trucks and the steep drop-off into the valley on the verge of the road. The Kenyan truck drivers have much to learn from their Egyptian and Sudanese compatriots when it comes to road manners.

Lunch was at the 57 km mark and it just happened to coincide with the 3'000 km done mark. So ably led by Liz and Rob, we did the necessary sign writing and took a group photo of the memorable occasion.

Group photo of the Jubilant slower riders at the 3 000 km done mark.

Arriving at the first view point.

Andje, Michael, Judith and Liz posing with the East African Rift Valley in the background

Looking down into the Rift Valley showing the Pass Road on the right

The Girls busy having fun & waiting for Liz to complete her bike repairs

Liz ready to ride once again

Liz explaining to Tallis that she had made a plan and her bike had been repaired locally

We cycled past Mount Longonot, a Strato-volcano, which last erupted in the 1860's. An indication of the past volcanic activity associated with the formation of the Rift Valley.

Our designated Coke Stop was in the Town of Longonot, which was an absolute necessity as Judith and I were running low on water at this stage. While resting and talking to the locals we were caught up by the Sweep Rider, finally things were back to normal.

Achieved my second tattoo of the Tour, when at the 20 km to go mark, Judith stopped abruptly for Liz who had dropped her bike multi-tool onto the road. Unfortunately traveling at approximately 35 km/hr behind them, I was unable to stop and crashed into Judith's bike, I then proceeded to tumble head over heels down the embankment.

I was fortunate and managed to sustain no major injuries, and other than soft tissue bruising to my left elbow (the one I fell on previously in Sudan) and a bit of minor blood letting... all was well that ended well. No bikes were injured in the making of this memorable moment, -which according to both Liz & Judith was most spectacular!

We arrived at the Crayfish Camp near Lake Naivasha, and elected to camp (as we needed to dry out the tent). Pitched the tent, had a shower and I saw Dr. Helen for a checkup, who confirmed that nothing had been broken during my escapades in obtaining my Kenyan tattoo.

Riders Briefing was followed by dinner which was a braai, with good wors and T-bone steak, accompanied by potato and tomato/green salad. Thereafter I spent some quality time with some of the other riders in the Camp Pub.

Cheers,

Mike T

Andje at the Third Veiw Point

Mount Longonot a Stratovolcano which last erupted in the 1860's

Today's Coke Stop in the Town of Longonot

Liz, Judith and Andje at today's Coke Stop

Negotiating the morning's Road Works

China busy taring Africa's roads

Wynand back to his usual happy disposition at the Lunch Truck;
accompanied by Leon today's 2nd half Sweep Rider

Today's Lunch Stop

On tomorrow's ride we can expect more climbing...

The next Section ahead of us - Nairobi to Jinja - Uganda!

Laughter Pub. AKA time to chill.

Day 31 - Our Flight to Nairobi - Kenya

Sunday: The experience at the Khartoum Airport was one of utter chaos, it started with us trying to get into the Departures Terminal through only one door, past the throng of people, all with the same intention. Moreover, we were accompanied by these huge cardboard bike boxes which needed manhandling and could barely fit through the security x-ray machine.

We hustled our way into the Terminal Building, but not before we were overwhelmed by a horde of Porters from Hell. Even though we protested vehemently, they wouldn't accept "no!" for an answer, and manhandled our boxes and luggage through the Security Checkpoint to the Kenyan Air book-in cubicles anyway.

They then demanded monetary gratuities, in some instances up to three Porters demanding a tip for carrying one piece of luggage. To make things worse, we had no money, having got rid of our excess Sudanese Pounds earlier. In some instances, due to the language barrier, negotiations with them became rather heated.

Fortunately an Airport Official intervened, and managed to get the Porters to leave. However, our problems were not over.

Once booked in, the Air Kenya appointed Porters, demanded payment to transport our bike boxes to the "Oversize Luggage" Section, and another standoff ensued.

This was once again only resolved by the intervention of some other high ranking official, but not before relations between Sudanese and foreign tourists had come within breaking point of outright war. One rider, already in possession of The Pacifier Award, was trying very hard for a double award!!

Once through into the Boarding Area, things managed to calm down, and we were able to regroup and relax, although at the back of our minds, we still wondered if our bike boxes had made it through to be loaded onto the plane.

We boarded the plane as per instruction and took off according to schedule. The flight went well, breakfast was served at 3.30am. Philip was the official designated winner of the "First to have a Beer Award" when he asked the Air Hostess for a beer and managed to have a beer with his breakfast in the early hours of the morning. Such dedication to the cause needs to be nurtured and admired. Well done Philip.

Judith and I on the other hand, had our breakfast and proceeded to sleep all the way to our destination.

Arrival in Kenya: Nairobi Airport was an utter pleasure compared to Khartoum. It didn't take us long and we were all processed through Immigration, made it to the luggage pickup area, where miracle of miracles, our bike boxes awaited us (although much worse for wear and tear). Then we were out of the Arrivals Terminal and greeted by our Designated Kenyan Driver.

We boarded a Shuttle Bus and were driven to Wildebeest Eco Lodge which was located in the Karen area and on the opposite side of Nairobi City, it was the designated TDA Camp for the next 6 days.

Mark & Philip and Sunrise in Nairobi

Negotiating the Airport Parking Lot

Loading up the Shuttle Bus - bikes and all.

Wendy and Tom taking time out for a photo shoot

After booking in, some of the riders chose to camp, while others elected to take up available accommodation (at own cost). We then regrouped and had breakfast at the Eco Lodge, and a couple of us, had our first beer - with breakfast!

Nothing like a cold Pilsner with Breakfast!

At breakfast, Judith and I met up with a fellow South African, Johnny Lawrence whom we know from our days in Rustenburg (he was the Best Man at Oliver and Lentie Page's Wedding). He has been in Kenya since 2012 and was camping at the Lodge with his young son - It is such a small world indeed.

We did not book in though, as we were going to be hosted for the majority of our stay in Nairobi, by Robert and Julie Pilkington, the parents of Richard, one of our son's friends in Cape Town.

I thumbed a lift to the nearest Mall with Errol and Brad from TDA, where I went through the usual ritual of changing $USD for local currency - Kenyan Shillings - and loading our cell phones with local sim cards.

Robert and his Dad Jack, fetched us after their golf excursion at 2pm, and took us with all of our luggage (we left the bikes at the Eco Lodge) to their house, where we met up with Robert's wife, Julie.

Later that evening we were treated to a great braai (BBQ) with much beer & wine consumed by yours truly, a good end to an eventful day.

Cheers,
Mike T

Riders having breakfast at Wildebeest Eco Lodge

Day 30 - Rest Day Khartoum - Boxing bikes & Dips in the Pool

Saturday: Had a relatively good night's sleep camped out on the grass at the Grand Hotel Villa, Judith had breakfast at the Hotel, I couldn't face food so early in the morning (maybe I overdid the ice-cream last night?).

We had a very chilled rest day, the main attraction being the boxing of our bikes which we will be taking with us on the flight to Nairobi. Boxes and tape were supplied by TDA and all we had to do was dismantle the bikes and fit them into the boxes, then seal them up ready for shipment.

I think Kenya Air are going to have a minor sense of humor failure, when 15 TDA riders pitch up to their flight from Khartoum to Nairobi, with their luggage and bike boxes, we are certainly going to have an interesting time booking in.

Used the opportunity in the afternoon to spend some quality time in the Hotel swimming pool, was joined in the pool by Muzz.

Packed up our tent, packed up our bags and had a late buffet dinner at the Hotel, before lounging around at the pool area, waiting for the shuttle to take us to the Airport at 11.30 pm.

Our flight from Khartoum to Nairobi takes off at 02:55 tomorrow morning, its going to be a long night at the Airport (especially for us TDA riders who are used to going to bed at 8pm latest !).

Nairobi, Kenya - here we come.

Cheers,

Mike T

Muzz and I taking advantage of the Hotel pool -

Boxing our bikes on the lawn

Day 29 - Bus Ride Rest Day (from Border to Khartoum)

Waiting for the bus, that's us! -

Friday: Sudan/Ethiopia Border to Khartoum (8 hr bus ride)

06:00 - Up early, packed up the tent and our holiday bags (no cycling for the next 8 days). Had a cup of coffee and a breakfast, all this while it was still relatively dark. Then walked with our bikes to the bus waiting for us, at the main road. If the bus won't come to us, then we don't have much option, but to walk to the bus with our bikes.

Loaded bags onto bus, then of course not a major surprise, but there was no space for our bikes, so we left them on the side of the road, with Leo the Bike Mechanic in charge.

Bus Company supposed to be sending another Bus/Truck to fetch and transport them to Khartoum for us? I suppose time will tell if they get there before dark.

Took a luxury bus back to Khartoum, very spacey and ultra modern, even got to watch the movie - Fast and Furious 5 nogal - on the on-board tv screen. First time I have sat in front of a T.V screen in nearly 4 weeks.

The bikes can't fit into the bus...

All ready to go back to Khartoum!

Happiness is a luxury bus load of cyclists :)

Arrived at the Grand Hotel Villa, found ourselves a pleasant camp spot on the lawn and pitched the tent. Decided to camp instead of hotel-ing like we did last time. We need only sleep over for one night, and we found the hotel very over-priced the last time we were here. We also have 6 days in Nairobi coming up, and need to conserve our funds.

Took a proper shower for the first time in 7-days (going to miss those donkey washes for a while). A most pleasant experience, having the luxury of hot and cold water at your beckoning.

In the evening, 12 of us went off and walked to the Mall, then had dinner at Layali Al Waha Restaurant just located outside the Mall. It was a most pleasant dinning experience, and all agreed the food had been great.

Then into the Mall, for some of their famous ice cream (Judith had 3 and I had 5 scoops). We followed this up with a very casual cappuccino, lounging around in the Coffee Shop.

Group of us then took a taxi back to the Hotel, to find our bikes waiting patiently for us on the grass camping area. A most pleasant night out in Khartoum.

Cheers,
Mike T

Thirst-Quenching Lemon and Mint drink

One of Khartoum's many statues

A group of us out having dinner at the Mall

Day 28 - Stage 24 - Rashid to Sudan Border (92 km)

Thursday: Our last stage ride in Sudan, and Judith and I both got the "Lunch Truck Bogeyman" off our shoulders, not an easy day, but a great day's riding (physiologically speaking of course).

Only cycled a short 1 km from camp on the dirt, before joining the main tar road to the Sudan/Ethiopian Border. However the tar road was very rough and potholed, but with our MTB tires and front suspension, our bikes could handle the constant road vibrations, and I was blessed with a smiling Judith for most of the day.

The ride went well, for the both of us, and even though the temperature was up in the high 40 degrees C again, we got to the lunch truck at 68 km, and continued on after lunch (although I could only eat the watermelon and no other solid food's) and finished the ride at the Sudan/Ethiopia Border.

However the day was not without incident for others, many of the riders had punctures (some had multiple punctures) or mechanical breakdowns. While a couple of riders fell ill during the ride. Mark (USA) fell off his bike and suffered a suspected wrist fracture. It can all be attributed to the bad road conditions, extreme heat of the last four days and general physiological condition.

We took it easy, had our first coke stop at 49Km, then a tea/coffee stop at 54Km, before stopping for lunch at 68Km. After lunch we had one last coke stop at 84Km, before completing the 92Km distance. At all of the stops we were accompanied by other riders, so it was quite festive out on the road today.

Once at camp, we had to separate our luggage into two bags each, one bag going by truck to Nairobi via Ethiopia, the other coming with us to Nairobi. Some riders have also left their bikes on the truck, but we decided to take ours with us to Nairobi, the risk of damage to our bikes just seems to be overly high.

Tomorrow (Friday), the riders and some of the TDA Management will be bused back to Khartoum (an eight hour bus ride) while the TDA vehicle's will cross into Ethiopia and make their way through Ethiopia, to Nairobi in Kenya.

Wynand the Lunch Truck Commander, did remind me that he will be cracking his first cold beer tomorrow evening in Ethiopia, while us other peasants have to wait another two sleepies before we get our beer privileges back, thanks Wynand!!

We will be staying at the same venue in Khartoum, as we did on our first arrival there (but we will be camping not hotel-ing). Will box our bikes, before flying to Nairobi on a Kenyan Airways flight, in the early hours of Sunday, 12th of February.

After riders briefing, we had an unofficial Section Presentation, presented by Paul Farrow, where both Judith and Liz from "Team RSA" received awards.

Judith was presented with the "Pacifier Award" (a floating trophy) for kicking her bike and using unsavory language after she had taken a tumble. While Liz was presented with the "Yellow Jersey Award" for being the most persistent rider over the last 6 day section.

It was Mark's (UK) birthday today, so we got chocolate cake with sauce after supper. Mark was also the Desert Sands Section Winner (narrowly beating Muzz by 7 minutes) so all in all, he had a great day today.

Although a bit of an anti-climax today, we are at the Ethiopian Border, but will not cross into Ethiopia, but go back to Khartoum.

More news & stories soon!

Cheers,

Mike T