Petauke to Luwanga Bridge Camp (171km + 1'410m climbing & 1'950m downhill...)

Zambia

Day 82 - Apr 4 - Stage 57

Max giving the evening's Briefing Meeting

Had a great day cycling, cycled with Philip, as Judith took Dr Helen's advice not to cycle, after yesterday's physically demanding hours of bum-on-saddle ride. Helen said she needed to rest up, so she rode on the Main Truck with a few others, to the Bridge Camp.

Wasn't an easy cycle, another 171km after yesterday's 176km, with a lot more climbing, I struggled up the hills, but have yet to meet a hill I could not simply walk!  My thanks go out to Philip for his patience, and waiting for me when the going got tough.

We spent the whole day answering the local kids, whenever they shouted and inquired, "How are you ? How are you!?"  This was met with a response from us of  "We are fine, how are you?"  Which was then followed by... silence!!

Lunch was at 80km, and after another 91km we arrived at Camp, which was situated along the Luangwa River, directly across from Mozambique.

Spent some quality time at the Bar which had a great setting and ambiance together with Judith and some of the other Riders and TDA Staff,  a good ending to another tough day.

However, for all of its natural beauty and it's fantastic setting, the Camp was a major rip-off. The Owner charged us for beers at 30 Kwacha each!! We only paid 12 Kwacha at the previous Camp (We all need to put it out there on Trip Advisor). As a result hardly anyone took up a room as accommodation. It was totally overpriced. Very shortsighted of the Owner. If he had lowered the room prices... they would have all been sold out!

Anyway, off to bed & another tough day tomorrow - a shorter distance but with 1'720m of climbing, mainly in the morning.

Cheers,
Mike T

All flagging-tape leads to Camp!

Looking down from the Bar Area towards the Camp grounds

Petauke to Luangwa Bridge Camp

Tent up and waiting at Luangwa Bridge Camp

Afternoon Coke Stop with Philip

Riders enjoying the Luangwa  Bridge Camp Veranda

Paul and Wendy enjoying the peace and tranquility of the Boma

Erin and Kim catching up on some social media time

Judith trying to make her point of view known, pinky-finger style.

Rupert spending some quality time with Cath and Alex

View of the Luangwa River with Mozambique on the opposite bank

Great setting for a Camp

Amarula time at the Bar

Chipata to Petauke (176km) & A New Record for Judith

ZAMBIA

Day 81 - Apr 3 - Stage 56

Local Zambian Riders (Judith in the background)

It was a very long cycling day and Judith decided to give it her best shot, and consequently... it was Judith's new personal best! She completed the 176km distance and we arrived at our destination before sunset (cut off time).

Early morning we reluctantly left Mama Rulas Camp in Chipata, it had been the best Camp so far, I would have preferred a rest day there, as opposed to the one we had in Lilongwe, but it was not to be.

The Zambian road surface was fantastic, from the dedicated bike lanes as we left Chipata, to the very smooth surface of the Great East Road, which had been rehabilitated by kind  donations and loans from European Investment Bank, European Union and Agence Francaise de Development - (for which we were extremely grateful).

We cycled 81km to lunch, then a further 96km to Camp, we might of come in last, accompanied by the Sweep Rider, but we had done the distance!  Briefing was already in progress when we arrived, and we appreciated  the thunderous applause we received from the other Riders.

We were just too tired to Camp, so we took a room at the Lodge, had a few drinks with Murray & Andje on the veranda, and then it was off to bed. 

Tomorrow is another long day with a 171km cycle to Luangwa Bridge Camp (we cross over the Bridge, then cycle to the Camp).

Cheers,
Mike T

Leaving Mama-Rula's in the morning

Turn right for Lusaka and keep going straight!

The Company's involved in the rehabilitation of The Great East Road

The great surface we were able to ride on

The morning's Coke Stop with Marie, Liz and Sweep Rider Helen

Leaving the Lunch Truck for the second half of the day's riding

The afternoons Coke Stop with Liz

Charcoal Sellers on the side of the road

Sweep Rider Max shadowing Judith on her new Personal Best Day of 176 km

Part of the Great East Road was only open to Cyclists and Cattle

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Lilongwe to Chipata [Mama Rulas Camp] (152km with 800m climbing)

MALAWI - ZAMBIA

Day 80 - Apr 2 - Stage 55

Left Lilongwe after an average type of Rest Day, fortunately it was a Sunday, so the traffic was relatively quiet as we passed through the CBD of the City on our way to the next Country, Zambia - which we were both looking forward to visiting since it is the land of my birth. 

I wanted to see how much the Country had changed, and it has been 50 years since I left the then young Independent Republic, and immigrated with my parents Ken and May Treloar, to South Africa. My parents had been in the then "Northern Rhodesia", since 1945 after the Second World War, and left to go South in 1967. I had not been back officially to Zambia since then.


After riding 80km, Judith got on the TDA Cruiser to rather ride to the Border, as she felt she would hold the border crossing procedures up by getting there too late if she continued cycling, a wise decision as we were actually running late.

The Malawian kids were still shouting, "Give me my money" which had by now become quite boring, although I did get a, "Give me my cell phone" which was soon followed by a, "Give me my bike".  Hell, what was I expected to do, donate my bike to some kid and then walk to Cape Town!??

After lunch, I cycled the 42km to the Border, but had a Coke Stop on the way with Liz, Marie and Helen the Sweep Rider. Once at the Border, crossing out of Malawi and into Zambia was absolutely painless. 

On the Zambian side, the Immigration Official noticed from my passport that I was Zambian born, and said, "Welcome back to Zambia!" How cool was that!

Amazingly once across the Border, the call of "Give me money" by the kids immediately stopped! It was replaced by a chirpy, "Mzungu, how are you?"  What an absolute pleasure....

The road surface on the Zambian side was just perfect, rode the final 30km to the Camp with Marie, who kindly allowed me to draught behind her for the complete 30km, and she didn't cycle slowly either, we averaged a decent 30 km/hr!

Arrived at the Mama Rulas Camp, had a few beers while I waited for Judith to arrive (she was with some of the TDA Staff doing some shopping in Chipata) before doing my tent erection duties. We decided to camp as it didn't look like it was going to rain.

Mama Rulas Camp had a great Bar, named "The Pit Stop", the beers were relatively cheap, cold, and plentiful, and a good time was had by all.


A local Indian fellow came to the Camp to assist us in changing our money from Malawian Kwacha to Zambian Kwacha, or to exchange US Dollars for Zambian Kwacha. Some of the Riders said he looked like my Brother, but just from another Mother!

Of all the Camps we had camped in so far on the Tour, Mama Rulas was one of the best we have encountered, and hopefully a taste of things to come in Zambia.

Tomorrow is a long day, 176km from Chipata to Petauke, don't know what Judith is going to do, will she ride the whole distance or only part of it? Tomorrow will tell.

Cheers,
Mike T

Could this be my long lost Brother ?

I don't know how the car got into the mielies

 (corn) but it got their proper!

Crossing a Bridge on our way towards Zambia

Liz and Marie at the Coke Stop waiting for Sweep Rider Helen to catch up with us

Chipata in Zambia has dedicated cycle lanes which were such a pleasure.

We are starting to see more and more home comforts & brands we recognize as we progress further South...

Ah Spar, "one wherever you are!"

The "Pit Stop" was well received at Mama Rula's

Riders enjoying quality time at the Pit Stop

Finally, the chance to drink my first "Mosi" in Zambia!

Come on the "Lions" my favorite Rugby Franchise.

Andrew and Linda taking some time out.

Judith taking advantage of a clear sky and hanging out some washing

Tomorrow's ride - Chipata to Petauke

Yup, a good time had by all who frequented the Pit Stop.

Alex finally conceding defeat and realizing she had eaten enough

Tallis making new friends at Mama Rula's

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Rest Day in Lilongwe, Malawi

MALAWI

Day 79 - Apr 1 - Rest Day

Saturday: Rest Day in Lilongwe, and it's already the 1st of April!! 
Time is definitely starting to fly (especially when you are having fun).

We are currently here!

Judith's Permanent Bag is soaking wet, there is a leak in the roof of the Main Truck and a few of the riders also get their bags back...saturated! She spends most of her rest day time getting everything dry!

I change my slick tyres (both my old slicks have cuts in the tyres) for new ones, brought along a set of foldable slicks for both Judith and I and it seems as if it was the right decision to take them along. 

I spend the day watching Super Rugby on the TV in the Bar having decided to have a very low-key rest day, which suits both Judith and I. Between the New Zealanders, Australians and us South Africans, we have a festive time watching Super Rugby. Thankfully the Lions manage to beat the Sharks right at the end.

Three new sectional riders join us, Thomas & Roman from Germany and Chris from Canada. The two Germans will leave us again when we reach Livingstone (Victoria Falls) in Zambia.

In my endevour to change my tyres, I manage to pop my previously dormant umbilical hernia, causing a large protrusion of my navel. At first I thought the pain was just another bout of diarrhea, but soon realise it's a little bit more serious than that. 

Get hold of Dr Helen, who tries to arrange for me to see a Medical Specialist at a Private Hospital. Unfortunately it's a Saturday afternoon, and not a Specialist is to be found anywhere in Lilongwe (TIA). She decides to manipulate it back into place and voila, she is sucessful! After much telephonic consultation, she decides that she is better than any doctor in a Public Hospital, and takes the decision not to get futher medical help, a decision which proves to be the correct one.

I am then placed under Doctor's Orders - I am to monitor the hernia and to stop cycling immediately if it happens again, if it does, I have to seek medical help in Lusaka (Zambia). 

Early evening, Judith and I take a Tuk-Tuk with Andje to an Auto Bank to draw money and to collect some Korean Takeaways for supper. It pours with rain, and we have an interesting time navigating the dark streets of Lilongwe by Tuk-Tuk.

Tomorrow we cross out of Malawi and into Zambia, the land of my birth!  We have quite a tough five day section ahead of us, before we reach Lusaka for our next rest day.

Cheers, 
Mike T

Our A-Frame accommodation at Mabuya

The sign about sums up the conditions we experienced at the Backpackers

Mabuya Backpackers

One of the cut in one of my slick tyres

The next Stage 55 - Lilongwe to Chipata (in Zambia)

The upcoming Section from Lilongwe to Lusaka

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Kasungu to Lilongwe (130km)

MALAWI

Day 78 - Mar 31 - Stage 54

Friday: We depart Kasungu with the greatest of intentions to cycle the full distance to Lilongwe, but a mean headwind disrupts Judith's plans, while both a mechanical (a slit tyre) and a physical (gout in my right knee again) intervenes for me - forcing us both to only cycle the 76km to lunch and then to take the truck to Mabuya Backpackers Camp in Lilongwe.

Carlsberg Beer on the move

As we approach Lilongwe in the morning, the traffic increases and becomes more aggressive, Judith is forced off the road at one stage by a big truck, while on another occasion I nearly get knocked over by another one!

The number of Police/Traffic Police roadblocks increases  (at one stage I count three roadblocks within a 5km stretch of road). Stopping traffic in order to collect "payments" in lieu of being paid a monthly salary, seems to be prevalent in this part of Malawi.


We have a Coke Stop, Liz takes the opportunity to buy some french fries for us all, this just contributes to my ever developing Fish Bowl Syndrome - described yesterday - which seems to be getting worse!

Judith rides the last 20km to lunch with Leon the Sweep rider, the day's headwind forcing her to ride at a very slow pace. But we are not alone, a further 6 riders climb into the Lunch Truck with us.

After packing up at lunch, it's a free for all by the locals when we leave them the uneaten left over food, but it's a behavior I have come to expect from the Malawians. To be quite honest, I think it's just a true reflection of the attitude of their current politicians. 

Arrive at Camp to find Mark Heim has rejoined the Tour, he left us after breaking his wrist on the last day of riding in the Sudan, it's good to see him back.

We say goodbye to Anthony Butler, Charles's Dad who leaves us to go back to work, it was great meeting up with him and we hope to see him either in Prince Albert or at his house in Cape St Francis in South Africa in the foreseeable future.


Cheers,
Mike T

Leaving Kasungu on the way to Lilongwe

Feeling major Fish Bowl Syndrome vibes at the Coke Stop

Fetching our Daily & Permanent Bags at Mabuya Backpackers' Lodge

Riders enjoying a cold beer after a tricky ride into Lilongwe

Nelson (on the left) talking to his friend Mark who rejoined us in Lilongwe after his fall in Sudan

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