Days 51+52 - in Kigali, Rwanda (Cont...)

Hi All,

Some of our pictures failed to load & post in the last blog post...

So, in continuing with the Kigali story... 
here are the other photos!

Cheers, 
Mike T

The Genocide Burial Site we visited

Sandstone paleo ripple marks seen in Museum rock wall

Dendrites seen in Museum rock wall

Riders relaxing and watching some soccer on the TV at the Backpackers 

Off to the Ethiopian Restaurant 

Judith and Rob enjoying their meal

Philip enjoying eating Ethiopian 

Kigali City by day

Kigali City by night

Liz and Judith at the Mediterranean Coffee Shop

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Days 51+52 - In Kigali, Rwanda

2-3 March: TDA booked out all of the accommodation at the Discover Rwanda Youth Hostel, and we spent two great rest days in Kigali, the Capital of Rwanda. It's not our first visit to Kigali, but it was definitely more rewarding than our initial visit to the City a few years back.

Good Rwandan coffee & black forest cake

Day 51: Backpackers offer a continental breakfast, so we enjoyed great fresh bread baked on the premises (must be the French influence) and a good cup of Rwandan coffee.

After breakfast a group of us took a taxi to the nearest Mall, to draw money, do some necessary grocery shopping and to frequent a Coffee Shop (Cappuccino & Black Forest Cake). 

Eleven of us take a couple of taxis to the Kigali Genocide Memorial Museum, where we spend the best part of the morning going through the extensive display at the Museum.

In April of 1994, the Hutu ethnic group turned on their fellow Rwandans the Tutsis, and slaughtered approximately 1 million Tutsis, with another million displaced (refugees) out of a total of 7 million Rwandans. This happened while the West, especially the United Nations (UN) just stood casually on the sidelines and allowed it all to happen.

The Genocide Museum was definitely worth the visit, and is a testament to the firm belief of the current Government, that this dark period and episode of Rwandan history will never be forgotten, nor allowed to be repeated. But at the same time, preaching and ensuring that there is genuine reconciliation and forgiveness between the two ethnic groups.

We visited the Memorial Garden, where approximately 250 000 bodies are buried in an open grave. Open in the sense, that any future bodies which are still being discovered periodically throughout the country, are reburied in the Memorial Gardens.

After going through the various Exhibitions and Garden, we have lunch at the Museum Cafe, and all are in agreement that the visit to the Museum has been one of the highlights of our trip so far.

Back to the Backpackers, for a peaceful evening, with quite a few of the riders either out on a tour visiting the Mountain Gorillas, or  preparing for a tour to the Gorillas in the morning. Judith and I not going on a Gorilla Tour, as we had previously seen them in Uganda a few years ago.

Genocide Museum Entrance

Genocide Museum Amphitheater 

Exhibit at Museum Reception

'Wanted' Poster

Just part of the Wall of Remembrance

Riders at the Kigali Genocide Memorial

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Day 52: Another Backpackers continental breakfast (I could get used to this freshly baked bread).

Phone and speak to Sean the Bike Mechanic at the Rwanda Cycling Club (Rwanda National Team) about my rear wheel failure and the  possibility of a rear wheel rebuild. Receive some great news, he tells me he can build me a suitable rear wheel and can have it delivered to me later in the day, I am ecstatic, that it can be done in such a short time period!

Spend most of the morning relaxing on the veranda, and we go off to an Ethiopian Restaurant situated within walking distance, for lunch with Philip, Murray, Rob and ourselves.

Later in the afternoon, my new rim arrives by kind assistance of Peter, one of the riders who went to see the Gorillas. Murray helps me to fit my old rear cluster and hydraulic brake rotor to the new wheel, and I am now fully equipped to continue cycling on my own bike without the assistance of Sharita's rear wheel.

Judith, Liz and I went to a Mediterranean Coffee Shop later in the evening for coffee, smoothies and cake, before having an early evening. Have to get up early to pack our bags and get ready for the next section of cycling. 

One more day's cycling in Rwanda, before crossing into Tanzania.

Cheers,

Mike T

Discussing the pro's and con's of Rwanda's home grown coffee beans before buying a suitable blend.

Riders enjoying the ambiance of the Mall Coffee Shop

Murray enjoying his thick strawberry milkshake at the Coffee Shop

Backpackers in Kigali

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Day 50 - Stage 35 - Lake Bunyonyi to Kigali (116 km)

Friday, 3 March: Today we crossed from Southern Uganda into Rwanda, our 5th African country, but not before we had to cycle out from Lake Bunyonyi over the hill and down and back into Kabale Town. In Rwanda we will have to cycle on the right hand side of the road again.

Being a rest day yesterday, Riders Briefing is held prior to an early breakfast. Its going to be a long day, with a Border crossing included.

We leave Lake Bunyonyi and immediately have our first dirt road ascent, quite a mean climb up the hill, followed by a fast descent to the tar road. Cycle back into Kabale Town, then turn onto the main road to the Border. Cycle most of the way in heavy mist (advantageous since you can't see the hills waiting for you).

We arrive at the Ugandan/Rwandan Border, clear Uganda without any hassles, in Rwanda we are not so lucky. We have to hand your passport in, then you get an invoice, which you take to the Bank of Kigali where you pay USD$30 for a visa, get a receipt which you then take back to the original window and wait for your passport to be stamped with an entry visa and entry stamp.

It takes at least two hours for Judith and I to enter Rwanda, we arrived at the Border within the first half of riders, but left last, which is not advantageous when you are a relatively slow rider and need to get to the lunch truck as soon as possible and it's about 30km away from the Border.

The ride to the lunch truck was very picturesque and we were accompanied by many of the local taxi/transport cyclists. Cycling is big in Rwanda. My new rear wheel behaved itself up to the Border, however on the way to the lunch truck it developed an irritating wobble and associated noise. Helen the Sweep Rider said it sounded like a steam engine!

We reach the lunch truck last and are just in time to witness two local lads grab a couple of loaves of bread, while Wynand was being distracted by the crowd. They run off with it down the hill, much to the delight of the local spectators. Rwanda is definitely different to Uganda.

Judith is not feeling well, and she decides to take the lunch truck, I join her. My replacement rear wheel is not behaving itself, and we are running late. 

We are the only passengers on the truck, all the other non-riders have taken the Main Truck into Kigali. We both fall asleep almost immediately, they do stop and wake us up to see a waterfall en route, but we soon go back to sleep, and only wake up at our destination, Discover Rwanda Backpackers. Definitely not the triumphant entry into Kigali we had planned, and a big self-induced disappointment from our side.

We fetch and move our bags to our allocated room (we have kindly been given a double room) and we join the majority of the riders for beers on the Terrace. Another Country, another set of different beers to be tasted, if I want to keep my EFB Status. 

We will be staying at the Backpackers for the next three nights, this will enable a lot of the riders the opportunity to see the Mountain Gorillas in Rwanda. We have previously seen the Gorillas, so we will not be taking up this opportunity.

We make sure to switch our watches back by one hour (back to RSA time). 

Cheers,

Mike T

Liz enjoying the picturesque Rwandan countryside 

Briefing Meeting - Lake Bunyonyi to Kigali

Paul and Judith cycling out from the Lake

View of Lake Bunyonyi from the top of the Hill

Cycling down on the dirt road  to get to Kabale Town

Artisnal mining for aggregate alongside the road in Southern Uganda

Clearing the Ugandan Immigration Office

Waiting on the Rwandan side of the Border

Hurry up, and wait.... to get into Rwanda

Rwanda home to Primus Beer

Typical Rwandan countryside

Rwandan cyclists taking advantage of the trucks to tow them up the hills

Locals at the lunch truck taking photos of the Muzungus

Rwandan Waterfall en route to Kigali

Erin very happy about the size of the beers in Rwanda

Unloading the riders bags at the Backpackers Lodge

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Day 49 - Lake Bunyonyi Overland Resort (Rest Day)

Leo the Bike Mechanic retro fitting the replacement rear wheel to my bike.

Thursday, 2 March: The Resort is situated in the most picturesque of places, among the vibrant vegetation surrounding the shore of Lake Bunyonyi. The amenities are great. An observation deck overlooking the Lake, two bars, and two dining areas. The perfect place for a TDA Rest Day.

Generally the quality of the food was great, although it often involved a long wait while being prepared in the kitchen. Unfortunately... the only real gripe, a breakfast at the Restaurant that was one of the worst I have had this entire trip, and at a self-paying establishment.

I took the opportunity and handed in our laundry, we were told, due to the inclement  weather, we had a 50% chance that it wouldn't be dry - not the most ideal of situations.

Travelling with wet clothes in your bags is a big no-no! Fortunately, our clothes were returned relatively dry.

Spent some quality time with Leo at today's  Bike Clinic, he managed to retro-fit Sharita's rear wheel to my bike, so I am up and running again for the immediate stages. Hopefully it will last until I can make alternative arrangements for another rear wheel.

I promptly suggested to the other heavier riders that they check their rear rims for damage, Murray found two minor cracks on his rear rim, he will monitor them to see if they propagate or remain stable. 

Murray carefully examining his rear rim for cracks

We ordered some print to order T-Shirts from a couple of enterprising locals, depicting the Mountain Gorillas (didn't get any the last time we visited the area on our Gorilla Trip) so it was rather fortuitous for us. It was a one day service, and we collected them at 5pm.

Choosing the desired motifs for our T-Shirts

Our belated Mountain Gorilla T-Shirts
(Gorillas in the mist, Muzungu's in the mud being very appropriate)

Between Liz and Rob, they organised for us to have our 4 000km Achieved photo taken, we had passed the 4 000km mark yesterday while cycling into Bunyonyi. Unfortunately, not all the eligible riders were available for the group photo, as some where out and about doing other things. 

Some of the riders pose for the 4 000 km Completed photo

Simon and Anmei out on the Lake enjoying some recreational rowing 

Murray organised a late afternoon boat cruise along a portion of the Lake (for 15 of us) which was most enjoyable. We were accompanied by Derrick, our own dedicated Guide, who was most informative. The Lake has numerous Islands, ranging from large to very small. 

One of the smallest, Punishment Island, was previously used as a dumping ground for unwed pregnant women, who were banished there to fend for themselves, with many of them perishing a slow death. The only way off the Island, was if a male from another clan, "rescued" her to take her as his free wife (without having to pay Lobola).

Boarding the boat for our late afternoon cruise

Getting ready to cruise on Lake Bunyonyi

View of part of the Resort from the Lake

Small and inhospitable "Punishment Island"

The majority of the riders closed off the day with a buffet dinner, which was combined with a belated birthday celebration for Alex. Who initially wanted no celebrations and no birthday cake, but the riders and staff had other ideas. 

A total of three birthday cakes were ordered from the Resort, and it can be said with great authority, that cake baking in Bunyonyi is not one of the Resorts fortes. Come back Chef Errol, your cake baking skills are sorely missed!

Cheers,

Mike T

Liz having some quality time

Late evening Buffet Dinner

Alex celebrates her belated birthday accompanied by Murray and Rupert

Alex's birthday cakes supplied by the Resort

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Day 48 - The Ugandan Hills! (1400m of climbing)

Wednesday, 1 March: And so it was with trepidation that I embarked on a solo cycling day, i.e. without Michael, whilst he rode on the TDA Truck & looked into solutions to replace his rear rim.

It was a tough, but great ride, together with some of the ladies until lunch, where they boarded the Lunch Truck. The day's climbing was approx. 1400m over just 95km, on what looked like the tarred equivalent of our Swartberg Pass near Prince Albert, with lots of switchbacks to get to the top of the first major climb after lunch in the rain, followed by a gravel and red-mud climb that was even worse!  

We experienced thick mist & rain most of the way, to the extent that my foot slipped right out of my shoe on an uphill stroke!  I was absolutely soaked.  However, I was so chuffed that my uphill cycling legs were back and I had managed three hill-climbing days in a row. 

Here's to cycling the many more hills to come!

Judi

Liz and me - the two RSA Ladies before the start of our ride to Lake Bunyonyi

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Day 48 - Stage 34 - Uganda Camp to Lake Bunyonyi (95 km)

Wednesday, 1 March: Another first for me, I climb on the Main Truck, and join Murray, Bridgette & Marie (recovering viral patients) Wendy (leg wound)) and Linda (sprained ankle) who are all on the truck too. No cycling for me today - I experienced a mechanical failure, yesterday.

Judith departs Camp aboard her bicycle, she will be cycling with Suzie and some of the other ladies, and its a big climbing day!  I wish her luck as she